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Engine code

CFFA engine faults.

Listed as: 2.0 TDI DPF. The faults belong to this engine code. They do not apply to every car with that name.

diesel

fuel

1968 cc

displacement

100 kW (136 HP)

power

4 fault write-ups. 3 important.

Before you buy

Known faults

3 important faults

critical1

The balance shaft module drives the oil pump through a hexagonal shaft stub. That hex and its mating part gradually round off, until the shaft finally turns freely: the oil pump stops and the oil pressure is gone. The process gives no warning, and that is exactly what makes it dangerous. The failure typically happens at high revs, and the oil pressure light comes on only once the damage is already done. The factory hex is undersized, so it knocks against the wall of the bore, and the wear accelerates itself. The maker classed it as a "tolerance deviation" and, given the small number of cases against total production, did not recommend preventive repair; Audi alone ran a service action (13D7). The replacement is expensive: on the German market the module replacement is 1,300 to 1,700 euro, and an independent repair touching only the hex is around 650 euro. The reported cases cluster around the Passat B6, Sharan, Audi A4/A6, Superb and Alhambra, in model years between 2005 and 2009. This layout is not only on the pump-injector (PD) engines, it is on the common rail EA189 engines too: the same module, the same hex, the same wear. The failure is typically reported between 100,000 and 160,000 km. The first sign is a short flash of the oil pressure light, in a long bend or a few seconds after a cold start, and then quiet again. The versions without balance shafts (BKD, BMM, BMN, AZV) drive the oil pump differently and are not affected by this wear. If the light stays on or flashes, stop as soon as it is safe, switch the engine off, and do not restart it until the oil pressure has been measured.

between 100,000 and 160,000 km

What to check

  • Ask whether the balance shaft module or the oil pump drive has been replaced, and if so, with a factory or a strengthened hex
  • Read through the service book: has an oil pressure warning ever flashed, even once
  • Unscrew the oil filler cap and look for metallic glitter in the lubricant
3 more steps in the write-up

expensive2

The internal springs of the flywheel tire, and the two discs knock against each other. The signs are a rattling or knocking from the bellhousing at idle and when releasing the clutch pedal, and vibration through the floor. If the clutch slips without a burnt smell, that also points to the flywheel. It is worth replacing in time: a disintegrated flywheel can destroy the bellhousing too. At a clutch replacement the two go together anyway.

What to check

  • At idle, without touching the clutch pedal, listen for the rattle from the bellhousing, then press the pedal: if it stops, that is suspect
  • Watch for the characteristic clatter on starting and switching off
  • Put your foot on the floor at idle: a noticeable vibration indicates tired springs
2 more steps in the write-up

The vanes of the variable geometry turbo are glued together by soot and oil arriving through the EGR. First you get overboost or a lack of boost, then loss of power above 2,000 rpm, and finally limp mode. Caught in time it is enough to remove the turbo, clean it and fit a new actuator rod. Short urban trips and gentle, low rev driving speed up the deposits.

What to check

  • On the motorway, load it above 2,000 rpm: does it pull evenly, or does the power break up
  • Watch whether the warning light flashes up under acceleration (overboost protection)
  • Ask what kind of journeys it did: a daily short urban run is the worst
1 more steps in the write-up

comfort1

The G62 sensor tells the engine control unit how hot the coolant is. If it is faulty, the control unit thinks a warm engine is cold, and runs it rich: hard warm or cold starting, a rough idle, markedly increased fuel consumption, and a dash temperature gauge that jumps around or never reaches its usual reading. The part is cheap and can be replaced in half an hour: the trouble is that many people do not recognise it and replace an injector or a lambda sensor instead. If the fault persists, the rich mixture can destroy the catalytic converter too.

What to check

  • Warm it up and watch the dash temperature gauge: the needle should sit steadily at the middle reading, not jump around
  • Watch a cold start, then a warm start after twenty minutes standing
  • With a code reader look for the 17664 / P1256 code in the engine control unit
2 more steps in the write-up

Engine code

Factory data

Factory data

Engine family
—
Fuel
diesel
Displacement
1968 cc
Power
100 kW (136 HP)
Production
—

Generations

Which models it is fitted to

2 generations.

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms