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Engine code

CMGB engine faults.

Listed as: 2.0 TDI. The faults belong to this engine code. They do not apply to every car with that name.

diesel

fuel

1968 cc

displacement

130 kW (177 HP)

power

5 fault write-ups. 4 important.

Before you buy

Known faults

4 important faults

critical2

The EGR cooler cools the recirculated exhaust gas before it enters the intake again, and coolant flows through it while it does so. The temperature difference between the two sides is large, so the wall can crack or the gasket can let through, and then the coolant reaches the exhaust or the intake side. This leaves no puddle under the car and the place of the leak is not visible from outside: the coolant evaporates and the level drops slowly, over weeks. The accompanying signs are whitish smoke, a rising coolant temperature, raised pressure in the cooling system and a sweetish smell. If it goes on for months the cylinder head can be damaged too, because the cooling gradually gets worse. On the EA189 engines the fault code P2425 usually comes with it. The problem is reported above 100,000 km, and replacing the cooler costs 600 to 1,500 euro.

above 100,000 km600–1,500 EUR

What to check

  • Look at the level in the expansion tank and ask how much has to be topped up
  • Look for traces outside: if the level drops but there is no puddle or streak, the leak is internal
  • After a cold start watch the exhaust, because lasting whitish smoke is not only condensation
2 more steps in the write-up

On these engines the oil pump is driven by its own small toothed belt, and that belt runs in the hot engine oil. This is not the large timing belt that drives the camshafts, it is a separate belt in the lower part of the engine. In the oil the rubber hardens over time, its surface starts to crumble, and the loose particles block the suction side of the oil pump, so the oil pressure drops. If the belt snaps, the oil pump stops at once and the engine is left without lubrication within seconds. The rubber crumbs can also ruin the turbocharger and the camshaft adjuster, because they are lubricated from the same oil circuit. The maker specifies no replacement interval for this belt, so most cars still carry the one fitted at the factory, and the failures are reported above 150,000 km. Oil outside the specification and a stretched oil change speed the process up, because this belt ages in the oil. Replacing the belt itself costs between 200 and 600 euro, as long as the engine has not run without oil pressure.

above 150,000 km200–600 EUR

What to check

  • Ask whether the oil pump belt has been replaced, and if so at what mileage
  • Unscrew the oil filler cap and look for black rubber crumbs in the lubricant
  • Ask which oil was used and how often the engine was serviced
2 more steps in the write-up

expensive2

The internal springs of the flywheel tire, and the two discs knock against each other. The signs are a rattling or knocking from the bellhousing at idle and when releasing the clutch pedal, and vibration through the floor. If the clutch slips without a burnt smell, that also points to the flywheel. It is worth replacing in time: a disintegrated flywheel can destroy the bellhousing too. At a clutch replacement the two go together anyway.

What to check

  • At idle, without touching the clutch pedal, listen for the rattle from the bellhousing, then press the pedal: if it stops, that is suspect
  • Watch for the characteristic clatter on starting and switching off
  • Put your foot on the floor at idle: a noticeable vibration indicates tired springs
2 more steps in the write-up

The vanes of the variable geometry turbo are glued together by soot and oil arriving through the EGR. First you get overboost or a lack of boost, then loss of power above 2,000 rpm, and finally limp mode. Caught in time it is enough to remove the turbo, clean it and fit a new actuator rod. Short urban trips and gentle, low rev driving speed up the deposits.

What to check

  • On the motorway, load it above 2,000 rpm: does it pull evenly, or does the power break up
  • Watch whether the warning light flashes up under acceleration (overboost protection)
  • Ask what kind of journeys it did: a daily short urban run is the worst
1 more steps in the write-up

comfort1

The G62 sensor tells the engine control unit how hot the coolant is. If it is faulty, the control unit thinks a warm engine is cold, and runs it rich: hard warm or cold starting, a rough idle, markedly increased fuel consumption, and a dash temperature gauge that jumps around or never reaches its usual reading. The part is cheap and can be replaced in half an hour: the trouble is that many people do not recognise it and replace an injector or a lambda sensor instead. If the fault persists, the rich mixture can destroy the catalytic converter too.

What to check

  • Warm it up and watch the dash temperature gauge: the needle should sit steadily at the middle reading, not jump around
  • Watch a cold start, then a warm start after twenty minutes standing
  • With a code reader look for the 17664 / P1256 code in the engine control unit
2 more steps in the write-up

Engine code

Factory data

Factory data

Engine family
—
Fuel
diesel
Displacement
1968 cc
Power
130 kW (177 HP)
Production
—

Generations

Which models it is fitted to

2 generations.

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms