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Audi RS3 Audi RS3 Sportback common faults.

2011–2013, hatchback, petrol, 340 HP.

The fault list covers: CEPA engine.

What you save stays on this device only. My saves

7 fault write-ups. 3 important. No recall on the list.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

3 important faults

expensive3

The crankcase breather of the five-cylinder 2.5 TFSI leads the oil vapour into the intake, and the stub of the diverter valve sits directly next to it. When the diverter valve opens on lifting off, it carries the oil vapour along, and the vapour condenses in the air filter housing, because the stub is right in front of the housing. The oil therefore collects on the filter element and in the bottom of the housing, the amount grows with use, and under load oil mist comes out of the intake pipe as well. The consequence is twofold: measurable oil consumption, and oil reaching the intake speeds up the carbon build-up on the intake valves, which is already heavy here because of the direct injection. This is not a broken part but where the line runs, so it shows up around 40,000 km already, and earlier on a car used hard. The repair is rerouting the breather or fitting a catch can, 200 to 600 euro.

above 40,000 km200–600 EUR

What to check

  • Take the air filter housing lid off and look at the filter element and the bottom of the housing
  • Wipe the inside of the intake pipe with a finger: an oily film belongs here
  • Ask whether a catch can has been fitted or the breather has been rerouted
2 more steps in the write-up

With direct injection the fuel does not wash the intake valves: the petrol goes into the cylinder, not behind the valve. The oil mist and soot arriving through the EGR and the crankcase ventilation therefore build up on the valve stem and head, and from 80,000 to 100,000 km they restrict the flow. Symptoms are hesitation, loss of power, a rough cold start and misfire. It is not a part failure: it is a consequence of the design, and therefore it comes back. Cleaning (walnut or dry ice blasting) helps for a few tens of thousands of kilometres.

What to check

  • After a cold start watch the idle: rough running and shaking point to coked valves
  • Under load at low revs watch for hesitation
  • With a code reader look for per cylinder misfire (P0300 to P0304)
1 more steps in the write-up

Water gets in through the sunroof drains, the door seals or the window guides, and collects on the floor and in the sill. The water also ruins the wiring and the control units in the floor, which leads to hesitant starting and an alarm going off on its own. With a fault like this, lift the carpet first, because the water is under it.

What to check

  • Lift the carpet in all four footwells and press the felt with your palm
  • On a car with a sunroof, open the roof and look at the drain openings in the corners of the frame
  • Pour water carefully over the sunroof frame, and see where it drains
2 more steps in the write-up

comfort2

Pixels drop out on the central display of the instrument cluster, where you read the trip computer: the text fades, the backlight becomes erratic, at first one or two dots are missing, and later whole lines are unreadable. This is where the service interval, the outside temperature and the warnings appear, and if a warning is unreadable you will not notice it. The instrument cluster can be refurbished, and a new one is not always needed.

What to check

  • After switching the ignition on, go over the whole display: a missing dot, a line, a faded section
  • Page through the trip computer menus: the fault often only shows on certain readouts
  • In the dark or in a garage, check that the backlight is even
2 more steps in the write-up

The G62 sensor tells the engine control unit how hot the coolant is. If it is faulty, the control unit thinks a warm engine is cold, and runs it rich: hard warm or cold starting, a rough idle, markedly increased fuel consumption, and a dash temperature gauge that jumps around or never reaches its usual reading. The part is cheap and can be replaced in half an hour: the trouble is that many people do not recognise it and replace an injector or a lambda sensor instead. If the fault persists, the rich mixture can destroy the catalytic converter too.

What to check

  • Warm it up and watch the dash temperature gauge: the needle should sit steadily at the middle reading, not jump around
  • Watch a cold start, then a warm start after twenty minutes standing
  • With a code reader look for the 17664 / P1256 code in the engine control unit
2 more steps in the write-up

cheap repair2

On the 8P the rubber bushes in the front lower control arms wear out: the steering goes vague, you hear a knock on uneven roads, and the tyre edges wear unevenly. It often shows up around 60,000 to 80,000 miles, which is roughly 95,000 to 130,000 km. On front wheel drive cars the rear suspension bushes wear too, it then rattles, and the back of the car follows the front uncertainly. One part on its own is not expensive, but when they all need replacing together the suspension repair costs more. You can hear it on the test drive and see it in the tyre wear.

between 95,000 and 130,000 km

What to check

  • On an uneven road at 30 to 50 km/h listen for a dull knock from the front
  • Standing still with the engine running, turn the wheel back and forth: there should be no clicking or rattling
  • Look at the inner and outer edges of all four tyres: uneven wear points to worn bushes
2 more steps in the write-up

The central locking control unit takes in moisture over the years, and from then on it is unpredictable: the doors do not lock together, the remote sometimes does not respond, and the alarm goes off for no reason. A door that stays open is a problem in a car park, and an alarm that goes off on its own can flatten the battery.

What to check

  • Lock and unlock with the remote several times, from different distances
  • Check whether every door locks together and fully: the tailgate too
  • Try the driver's lock with the key blade as well
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi RS3 Audi RS3 Sportback

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Engine and transmission

CEPA · 2.5 TFSI (RS3)

250 kW (340 HP) · petrol

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
Audi RS3 Sportback
Body
hatchback
Fuel
petrol
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
2480 cc
Power
250 kW (340 HP)
Drive
AWD
Production
2011–2013

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Spark plugs, petrol

    • 60,000 km or 6 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms