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Audi S3 2.0 TFSI quattro Pro Line + common faults.

2013–2016, hatchback, petrol, 300 HP.

The fault list covers: CJXC, DNUE engine, DQ250 transmission.

What you save stays on this device only. My saves

12 fault write-ups. 6 important. 1 recalls.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

6 important faults

critical1

In these engines the oil pump is adjustable, and the factory setting deliberately keeps the oil pressure low at low revs to reduce the drag of driving it. At low revs the stock pump works at around 1.8 bar, up to 2 bar at most. With a warm engine at idle this can fall further, and values below 1 bar have been reported. The camshaft adjusters feel the low pressure first, because the oil pressure itself is what holds the adjuster in place: this is where the clacking noise heard at idle comes from. The chain tensioner follows, which the same pressure tensions, and the timing chain therefore wears faster. The reference values for this engine family are 2 bar at idle, 3 bar at 2,000 rpm and 4.5 bar at 4,000 rpm. The turbocharger and the camshaft are lubricated from the same circuit. A strengthened oil pump raises the idle pressure by about 20 per cent. Repairing the pump costs between 800 and 2,800 euro, and replacing a worn chain is a further 1,200 to 3,500 euro.

between 70,000 and 120,000 km800–3,500 EUR

What to check

  • With a warm engine at idle listen for the clacking noise from the camshaft adjusters
  • Read the fault memory and look for the camshaft timing codes P0011 and P0014
  • Ask whether the oil pressure was measured warm at idle, and what it was
2 more steps in the write-up

expensive5

The solenoids of the mechatronics unit wear out: slow or harsh shifting, then limp mode. A characteristic sign is the partial or complete loss of reverse. Wear of the clutch pack or the wrong spring force causes jerking and slipping. Because of the wet design it fails less often and at higher mileage than the dry DQ200, but when it does fail, it is expensive.

above 150,000 km

What to check

  • Pull away slowly from standstill and watch how smooth the 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 shifts are
  • Select reverse several times, cold and warm: is it delayed, does it engage at all
  • Under load (on a slope) watch whether the clutch slips
2 more steps in the write-up

While you steer, a grinding, squealing noise comes from the steering column, which many people blame on the power steering pump or the steering rack, although the cause is often the control unit in the steering column, and that is a smaller part, not the rack. Replacing the control unit is the smaller repair, replacing the rack costs much more, and the noise alone does not separate the two, so a fault code read is needed.

What to check

  • Standing still with the engine running, turn the wheel lock to lock in both directions
  • Repeat it rolling slowly too: the noise sometimes only appears under load
  • Watch whether the noise tracks the steering movement (column) or the engine revs (pump)
2 more steps in the write-up

The combined housing of the water pump and the thermostat is plastic, and it is bolted directly to the hot engine block. The many heat and cool cycles warp it, it becomes brittle, and then it develops a hairline crack: the fault is almost always the housing, not the pump itself. The signs are slowly disappearing coolant with no visible puddle, the coolant level light, a sweet smell from the engine bay, and later a pink stain under the car. The repair means replacing the pump and the housing together, and the intake manifold has to come off for it: 4 to 6 hours of work. It shows up on model years 2015 to 2025.

What to check

  • Check the level in the expansion tank, and ask whether it needs topping up
  • With a cold engine, smell the engine bay: a sweet smell means a coolant leak
  • Shine a light under the intake manifold, on the right side of the engine: dried or pinkish deposits
2 more steps in the write-up

The crankcase ventilation (PCV) of the third generation 1.8/2.0 TSI fails less often than its predecessors, but it is not faultless. After sustained full load acceleration, under hard braking, the return branch of the ventilation can be overloaded, and the oil ends up in the intake instead of draining. The symptoms are oil consumption, blue smoke after load, and deposits in the intake.

Show the rest

This also reinforces the other, already known phenomenon: because of the direct injection, the coke building up on the intake valves grows faster with oil reaching the intake.

What to check

  • After a test drive under load, look at the exhaust: it should not smoke blue under hard braking after sustained acceleration
  • Ask about topping up between two oil changes: adding oil every 1,000 to 1,500 km is not normal
  • Look at the intake connections and the ventilation hose: oily deposits mean oil in the intake
1 more steps in the write-up

Water gets in through the sunroof drains, the door seals or the window guides, and collects on the floor and in the sill. The water also ruins the wiring and the control units in the floor, which leads to hesitant starting and an alarm going off on its own. With a fault like this, lift the carpet first, because the water is under it.

What to check

  • Lift the carpet in all four footwells and press the felt with your palm
  • On a car with a sunroof, open the roof and look at the drain openings in the corners of the frame
  • Pour water carefully over the sunroof frame, and see where it drains
2 more steps in the write-up

cheap repair6

The crankcase breather carries the vapour that forms inside the engine back to the intake, and a rubber membrane regulates the pressure. Oil and heat harden this membrane until it tears, and from then on the intake draws air through the hole in it. The engine control unit does not measure that air, so the mixture goes wrong: the engine shakes at idle, stumbles when accelerating, and the fault memory gets P2279 for an intake system leak. In the other direction oil starts towards the intake, which leaves an oily film in the intercooler and on the intake pipe and speeds up the carbon build-up on the intake valves. The audible sign is a whistling or hissing noise from the engine bay, loudest at idle. The tear is reported between 60,000 and 90,000 km. On the first and second generation the breather is a separately replaceable valve (factory number 06H 103 495 AK) and costs between 80 and 400 euro; from the third generation it is built into the cam cover, so there the cover is replaced. The maker issued three versions up to 2016, and fitting the pressure variant that does not belong to the engine brings the same symptom back.

between 60,000 and 90,000 km80–400 EUR

What to check

  • At idle listen for a whistling or hissing noise from the engine bay
  • Read the fault memory and look for the P2279 code for an intake system leak
  • Take the air filter housing lid off and see whether there is an oily film on the filter and in the housing
2 more steps in the write-up

Over bumps a booming, squeaking noise comes from the front, and a common cause is a bump stop put back wrongly after a damper replacement: that is not a factory fault, but the result of earlier work. On cars built between 2013 and 2016 the rubber bushes wear out too, the dampers weaken as well, the car rides more harshly, and the tyres wear unevenly. The two faults sound the same on a test drive, so if the suspension was repaired at a garage, ask for the invoice and listen to the car.

What to check

  • Going slowly over bumps and speed humps, listen for booming and squeaking
  • Push each of the four corners down: the car should settle after one rebound
  • Look at the damper bodies for oil traces
2 more steps in the write-up

The engine warning light comes on, the engine runs badly, and the fault code points at oil pressure, although the most common cause is the sensor itself, not that the engine really has no oil pressure. Replacing the sensor is the smaller and more common repair, but you cannot decide that just by looking, because only a measurement can rule out low oil pressure, and if the pressure really is low the engine is damaged. Do not buy the car without a fault code read.

What to check

  • After switching the ignition on, watch whether the engine warning light goes out; do not drive off with it flashing
  • Ask for a fault code read, and note the exact code
  • Ask whether the sensor has already been replaced, and ask for the invoice
2 more steps in the write-up

With the air conditioning on, a whistling noise comes from the dashboard, and the cause is the expansion valve, which meters the refrigerant, so the compressor has not failed and the gas has not run out. Most places first suggest a recharge, but a recharge does not stop the noise: the noise comes back, and you pay for a recharge that does not help.

What to check

  • Switch the air conditioning on with the car standing and the engine running, and listen to the centre of the dashboard
  • Vary the temperature setting and the fan speed: the noise typically changes with them
  • Check the actual cooling power too: noticeably cold air should come from the centre vent
2 more steps in the write-up

The dash shows "Error: Workshop! Only leave vehicle in position P" with an audible warning. The message appears in whatever language the car is set to, for example "Fehler: Werkstatt! Fahrzeug nur in Stellung P verlassen" in German.

Show the rest

The message points at the gearbox, but the fault is not there. A tiny switch sits in the module under the selector lever and signals that the lever is in park (P). Its contact wears and can also burn. That makes the signal unreliable, and the car warns you. The fault codes appear as 617752, P173400 or B116229.

At first it is intermittent. Sometimes the message comes up, sometimes not, so a short test drive easily misses it. Later it becomes permanent, and the gearbox can drop into limp mode.

This fault looks more expensive than it is. The maker released a separate retrofit switch kit for it (5Q0713128A for the black module, 3Q0713128 for the white one), which can be fitted in half an hour. The kit costs 70 to 100 pounds. At a franchised dealer, however, the whole selector lever module sometimes gets replaced, which costs 626 to 1,000 pounds there. So the difference between the two routes is roughly tenfold.

The affected group is post 2013 MQB platform Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda cars with a DSG gearbox. The switch is in these gearboxes, because that is what these cars have in common. The part itself is not part of the gearbox but of the module under the lever.

What to check

  • Watch the dash after starting: the message is intermittent and can be missed on a short loop
  • Move the lever from P to D and back several times, then get out and lock the car
  • Ask whether the selector lever switch has been replaced already, and ask for the invoice
2 more steps in the write-up

The per cylinder ignition coil of these direct injection, turbocharged petrol engines fails. According to the Haynes service material this and similar simple electrical faults account for roughly eighty per cent of workshop visits.

Show the rest

In cold, damp weather, on startup, the engine runs unevenly, misfires under acceleration, and the engine warning light flashes or stays on. Do not keep driving with the light flashing: the unburnt fuel destroys the catalytic converter.

What to check

  • Start with a cold engine and watch the first half minute: a rough idle or shaking is suspect
  • On the test drive load the engine at low revs with a lot of throttle: the misfire shows then
  • A flashing engine warning light calls for stopping immediately
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi S3 2.0 TFSI quattro Pro Line +

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

Faults of this model

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Official recall1 recallsShow

The manufacturer fixes these for free at a franchised dealer. Ask with the VIN whether it was done.

Most recent: 22 March 2021

21V198000AIR BAGS:SENSOR:OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION:FRONT PASSENGERAIR BAGS:SENSOR:OCCUPANT CLASSIFICATION:FRONT PASSENGER22 March 2021 · NHTSA (USA)

Volkswagen Group of America, Inc. (Audi) is recalling certain 2015-2020 Audi S3 Sedan, A3 Sedan, 2016-2018 A3 Etron, 2017-2020 RS3 Sedan, and 2015-2019 A3 Cabriolet vehicles. The passenger occupant detection system (PODS) may malfunction and switch off the passenger air bag even when the seat is occupied.

Risk: A deactivated passenger air bag increases the risk of injury during a crash.

Remedy: Dealers will replace the PODS sensor mat and update the PODS control module, free of charge. Owners letters were mailed December 23, 2021. Owners may contact Audi customer service at 1-800-253-2834. Audi's number for this recall is 69BY.

The authority's notice

Engine and transmission

2 engines · 1 transmissions

CJXC · 2.0 TFSI (S3)

221 kW (300 HP) · petrol

DQ250 · 6-speed DSG, wet clutch

DSG · 6 speed

Clutchwet
Torque limit400 Nm
MakerVolkswagen

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one engine code is possible. The fault list shows the faults of each.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
quattro Pro Line +
Body
hatchback
Fuel
petrol
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
1984 cc
Power
221 kW (300 HP)
Drive
AWD
Production
2013–2016

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Haldex coupling: oil and filter

    • 64,000 km or 3 years(40,000 miles, or 3 years per the older VW documentation)
  • DSG oil change, WET clutch gearbox

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Spark plugs, petrol

    • 60,000 km or 6 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms