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Audi A4 2.0 TDI 140hp Advance common faults.

2004–2008, estate, diesel, 140 HP.

The fault list covers: BLB, BPW, BRE engine, 0AN transmission.

What you save stays on this device only. My saves

6 fault write-ups. 5 important. 4 recalls.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

5 important faults

critical2

The balance shaft module drives the oil pump through a hexagonal shaft stub. That hex and its mating part gradually round off, until the shaft finally turns freely: the oil pump stops and the oil pressure is gone. The process gives no warning, and that is exactly what makes it dangerous. The failure typically happens at high revs, and the oil pressure light comes on only once the damage is already done. The factory hex is undersized, so it knocks against the wall of the bore, and the wear accelerates itself. The maker classed it as a "tolerance deviation" and, given the small number of cases against total production, did not recommend preventive repair; Audi alone ran a service action (13D7). The replacement is expensive: on the German market the module replacement is 1,300 to 1,700 euro, and an independent repair touching only the hex is around 650 euro. The reported cases cluster around the Passat B6, Sharan, Audi A4/A6, Superb and Alhambra, in model years between 2005 and 2009. This layout is not only on the pump-injector (PD) engines, it is on the common rail EA189 engines too: the same module, the same hex, the same wear. The failure is typically reported between 100,000 and 160,000 km. The first sign is a short flash of the oil pressure light, in a long bend or a few seconds after a cold start, and then quiet again. The versions without balance shafts (BKD, BMM, BMN, AZV) drive the oil pump differently and are not affected by this wear. If the light stays on or flashes, stop as soon as it is safe, switch the engine off, and do not restart it until the oil pressure has been measured.

between 100,000 and 160,000 km

What to check

  • Ask whether the balance shaft module or the oil pump drive has been replaced, and if so, with a factory or a strengthened hex
  • Read through the service book: has an oil pressure warning ever flashed, even once
  • Unscrew the oil filler cap and look for metallic glitter in the lubricant
3 more steps in the write-up

The continuously variable gearbox of the longitudinal engine Audis (Multitronic) is vulnerable from both the control unit and the drive chain side. Symptoms are jerking and slipping under acceleration, delayed engagement, limp mode, and in extreme cases a total loss of drive.

Show the rest

The cost of a rebuild can account for a significant part of the value of the car, and a faulty car often goes up for sale in a "it still runs, it just jerks now and then" condition. On the same model the manual or tiptronic sibling is a significantly lower risk.

What to check

  • Standing still on the brake, shift between D and R: an engagement taking longer than 1 to 2 seconds is suspect
  • Pull away gently, then on half throttle: there must be no jerking, slipping or flaring of the revs
  • A longer, warm test drive is mandatory: the fault typically appears once warmed up
2 more steps in the write-up

expensive3

The front suspension of the longitudinal engine Audis (and the Seat Exeo derived from them) works with four control arms per side: two above, two below. That gives excellent steering when new, but it also means four ball joints and eight bushes per side: sixteen wear points at the front in total.

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The first complaints appear at around 100,000 to 120,000 km: knocking over bumps, squeaking, vague steering, vibration through the wheel at higher speed, and uneven tyre wear from the disturbed suspension geometry.

Replacing a single arm is not expensive, but it rarely stops at one, and the work also needs a wheel alignment afterwards. Workshops therefore offer a full arm kit, which is a serious item, and an excellent bargaining point, because you can hear it on the test drive and see it on the tyres.

between 100,000 and 120,000 km

What to check

  • On an uneven road at 30 to 50 km/h listen for dull knocking and squeaking from the front
  • Standing still with the engine running, turn the wheel back and forth: there should be no clicking or rattling
  • Look at the inner and outer edges of all four tyres: uneven wear is the surest sign
2 more steps in the write-up

The internal springs of the flywheel tire, and the two discs knock against each other. The signs are a rattling or knocking from the bellhousing at idle and when releasing the clutch pedal, and vibration through the floor. If the clutch slips without a burnt smell, that also points to the flywheel. It is worth replacing in time: a disintegrated flywheel can destroy the bellhousing too. At a clutch replacement the two go together anyway.

What to check

  • At idle, without touching the clutch pedal, listen for the rattle from the bellhousing, then press the pedal: if it stops, that is suspect
  • Watch for the characteristic clatter on starting and switching off
  • Put your foot on the floor at idle: a noticeable vibration indicates tired springs
2 more steps in the write-up

The vanes of the variable geometry turbo are glued together by soot and oil arriving through the EGR. First you get overboost or a lack of boost, then loss of power above 2,000 rpm, and finally limp mode. Caught in time it is enough to remove the turbo, clean it and fit a new actuator rod. Short urban trips and gentle, low rev driving speed up the deposits.

What to check

  • On the motorway, load it above 2,000 rpm: does it pull evenly, or does the power break up
  • Watch whether the warning light flashes up under acceleration (overboost protection)
  • Ask what kind of journeys it did: a daily short urban run is the worst
1 more steps in the write-up

comfort1

The G62 sensor tells the engine control unit how hot the coolant is. If it is faulty, the control unit thinks a warm engine is cold, and runs it rich: hard warm or cold starting, a rough idle, markedly increased fuel consumption, and a dash temperature gauge that jumps around or never reaches its usual reading. The part is cheap and can be replaced in half an hour: the trouble is that many people do not recognise it and replace an injector or a lambda sensor instead. If the fault persists, the rich mixture can destroy the catalytic converter too.

What to check

  • Warm it up and watch the dash temperature gauge: the needle should sit steadily at the middle reading, not jump around
  • Watch a cold start, then a warm start after twenty minutes standing
  • With a code reader look for the 17664 / P1256 code in the engine control unit
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi A4 2.0 TDI 140hp Advance

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Official recall4 recallsShow

The manufacturer fixes these for free at a franchised dealer. Ask with the VIN whether it was done.

A12/01891/20Safety recallInjuriesno date · EU Safety Gate

The Takata gas generator housing could burst when the passenger airbag is deployed. This may cause small metal parts to become detached from the housing, posing a risk of injury to the occupants.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: Unknown

We could not check this: model year. The authority's notice

A12/01957/24Safety recallInjuriesno date · EU Safety Gate

The propellant in the driver airbag may deteriorate over time. If the airbags deploy, it could result in fragments from the inflator injuring the vehicle's occupants. The product does not comply with the Regulation on the approval and market surveillance of motor vehicles and their trailers, and of systems, components and separate technical units intended for such vehicles.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: Unknown

We could not check this: model year. The authority's notice

A12/0834/19Safety recallInjuriesno date · EU Safety Gate

The handheld control unit for throttle and brake may develop a fracture in a welded joint in the relay mechanism. If this damage occurs this may lead to impaired functioning or even failure of the brake and gas control via the manual control device.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: Unknown

We could not check this: model year. The authority's notice

SR/00790/26Safety recallInjuriesno date · EU Safety Gate

The driver airbag inflator may cause uncontrolled inflation and release metal fragments when the airbag is activated, which can cause injury to the occupants. The product does not comply with the Regulation on the approval and market surveillance of motor vehicles and their trailers, and of systems, components and separate technical units intended for such vehicles.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: Unknown

We could not check this: model year. The authority's notice

Engine and transmission

3 engines · 1 transmissions

BLB · 2.0 TDI

103 kW (140 HP) · diesel

0AN · multitronic, continuously variable (CVT)

CVT · —

Torque limit380 Nm
MakerAudi/LuK

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one engine code is possible. The fault list shows the faults of each.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
Advance
Body
estate
Fuel
diesel
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
1968 cc
Power
103 kW (140 HP)
Drive
FWD
Production
2004–2008

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Timing belt, 1.6 / 2.0 TDI (EA188/EA189/EA288)

    • 210,000 km(EA288, including the 1.6 TDI, with no time limit. 130,000 miles = 209,215 km. Parts maker repair specification, read by a human. The interval chart at https://www.rwcmotorsport.com/tech/tdi-maintenance.php gives the same figure independently.)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Fuel filter, diesel

    • 60,000 km or 2 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms