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Audi A5 1.8 TFSI 170hp Pro Line S common faults.

2011–2017, hatchback, petrol, 170 HP.

The fault list covers: CABD, CJEB engine, 0AW transmission.

What you save stays on this device only. My saves

4 fault write-ups. All are important. No recall on the list.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

4 important faults

critical1

The continuously variable gearbox of the longitudinal engine Audis (Multitronic) is vulnerable from both the control unit and the drive chain side. Symptoms are jerking and slipping under acceleration, delayed engagement, limp mode, and in extreme cases a total loss of drive.

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The cost of a rebuild can account for a significant part of the value of the car, and a faulty car often goes up for sale in a "it still runs, it just jerks now and then" condition. On the same model the manual or tiptronic sibling is a significantly lower risk.

What to check

  • Standing still on the brake, shift between D and R: an engagement taking longer than 1 to 2 seconds is suspect
  • Pull away gently, then on half throttle: there must be no jerking, slipping or flaring of the revs
  • A longer, warm test drive is mandatory: the fault typically appears once warmed up
2 more steps in the write-up

expensive3

A small electric motor built into the rear brake calipers applies the parking brake. This is a known weak point of the B8 platform (A4 B8, A5 8T, Q5 8R, allroad B8): moisture and road salt get into the motor housing, the electronics corrode, and the gears seize. The symptom is a parking brake that will not apply or will not release, with a fault message.

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Two things are worth knowing about it. First, the system is sensitive to voltage: a weak battery dropping below 12.2 V can trigger an intermittent parking brake fault on its own, especially in the cold. In that case it is not the brake that needs replacing. Second, servicing the rear brake requires putting the caliper into service mode with a diagnostic tool; forcing the piston back by hand destroys the actuator itself.

above 50,000 km

What to check

  • Apply and release the parking brake several times in a row: it must work evenly and without a fault in both directions
  • Stop the car on a slope on the parking brake alone: it has to hold
  • After switching the ignition on, check for a parking brake or hill hold fault message
2 more steps in the write-up

The combined housing of the water pump and the thermostat is plastic, and it is bolted directly to the hot engine block. The many heat and cool cycles warp it, it becomes brittle, and then it develops a hairline crack: the fault is almost always the housing, not the pump itself. The signs are slowly disappearing coolant with no visible puddle, the coolant level light, a sweet smell from the engine bay, and later a pink stain under the car. The repair means replacing the pump and the housing together, and the intake manifold has to come off for it: 4 to 6 hours of work. It shows up on model years 2015 to 2025.

What to check

  • Check the level in the expansion tank, and ask whether it needs topping up
  • With a cold engine, smell the engine bay: a sweet smell means a coolant leak
  • Shine a light under the intake manifold, on the right side of the engine: dried or pinkish deposits
2 more steps in the write-up

With direct injection the fuel does not wash the intake valves: the petrol goes into the cylinder, not behind the valve. The oil mist and soot arriving through the EGR and the crankcase ventilation therefore build up on the valve stem and head, and from 80,000 to 100,000 km they restrict the flow. Symptoms are hesitation, loss of power, a rough cold start and misfire. It is not a part failure: it is a consequence of the design, and therefore it comes back. Cleaning (walnut or dry ice blasting) helps for a few tens of thousands of kilometres.

What to check

  • After a cold start watch the idle: rough running and shaking point to coked valves
  • Under load at low revs watch for hesitation
  • With a code reader look for per cylinder misfire (P0300 to P0304)
1 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi A5 1.8 TFSI 170hp Pro Line S

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Engine and transmission

2 engines · 1 transmissions

CABD · 1.8 TFSI

125 kW (170 HP) · petrol

0AW · multitronic, continuously variable (CVT)

CVT · —

Torque limit400 Nm
MakerAudi/LuK

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one engine code is possible. The fault list shows the faults of each.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
Pro Line S
Body
hatchback
Fuel
petrol
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
1798 cc
Power
125 kW (170 HP)
Drive
FWD
Production
2011–2017

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Spark plugs, petrol

    • 60,000 km or 6 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms