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Audi Allroad 3.0 TFSI Pro Line common faults.

2008–2011, estate, petrol, 290 HP.

The fault list covers: CAJA engine, AL420, AL600, ZF6HP transmission.

What you save stays on this device only. My saves

4 fault write-ups. 3 important. 1 recalls.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

3 important faults

expensive3

The front suspension of the longitudinal engine Audis (and the Seat Exeo derived from them) works with four control arms per side: two above, two below. That gives excellent steering when new, but it also means four ball joints and eight bushes per side: sixteen wear points at the front in total.

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The first complaints appear at around 100,000 to 120,000 km: knocking over bumps, squeaking, vague steering, vibration through the wheel at higher speed, and uneven tyre wear from the disturbed suspension geometry.

Replacing a single arm is not expensive, but it rarely stops at one, and the work also needs a wheel alignment afterwards. Workshops therefore offer a full arm kit, which is a serious item, and an excellent bargaining point, because you can hear it on the test drive and see it on the tyres.

between 100,000 and 120,000 km

What to check

  • On an uneven road at 30 to 50 km/h listen for dull knocking and squeaking from the front
  • Standing still with the engine running, turn the wheel back and forth: there should be no clicking or rattling
  • Look at the inner and outer edges of all four tyres: uneven wear is the surest sign
2 more steps in the write-up

The four groups of parts in the air suspension (compressor, valve block, ride height sensors, air springs) work together, and any weak link causes a fault message, an uneven ride height or a car that settles. The characteristic symptom: the car sits down on one corner overnight, levels itself for minutes in the morning, and the compressor runs long and loud. According to the reports the compressor lasts 80,000 to 100,000 km; and a leaking air spring takes the compressor with it, because it keeps trying to make up the loss.

What to check

  • Look at the car cold, after standing a long time: has it settled on any corner
  • After startup time how long it takes to level, and listen to the compressor
  • Cycle through the ride height settings in the onboard menu and check that all of them work
3 more steps in the write-up

With direct injection the fuel does not wash the intake valves: the petrol goes into the cylinder, not behind the valve. The oil mist and soot arriving through the EGR and the crankcase ventilation therefore build up on the valve stem and head, and from 80,000 to 100,000 km they restrict the flow. Symptoms are hesitation, loss of power, a rough cold start and misfire. It is not a part failure: it is a consequence of the design, and therefore it comes back. Cleaning (walnut or dry ice blasting) helps for a few tens of thousands of kilometres.

What to check

  • After a cold start watch the idle: rough running and shaking point to coked valves
  • Under load at low revs watch for hesitation
  • With a code reader look for per cylinder misfire (P0300 to P0304)
1 more steps in the write-up

comfort1

The G62 sensor tells the engine control unit how hot the coolant is. If it is faulty, the control unit thinks a warm engine is cold, and runs it rich: hard warm or cold starting, a rough idle, markedly increased fuel consumption, and a dash temperature gauge that jumps around or never reaches its usual reading. The part is cheap and can be replaced in half an hour: the trouble is that many people do not recognise it and replace an injector or a lambda sensor instead. If the fault persists, the rich mixture can destroy the catalytic converter too.

What to check

  • Warm it up and watch the dash temperature gauge: the needle should sit steadily at the middle reading, not jump around
  • Watch a cold start, then a warm start after twenty minutes standing
  • With a code reader look for the 17664 / P1256 code in the engine control unit
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi Allroad 3.0 TFSI Pro Line

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Official recall1 recallsShow

The manufacturer fixes these for free at a franchised dealer. Ask with the VIN whether it was done.

A12/01891/20Safety recallInjuriesno date · EU Safety Gate

The Takata gas generator housing could burst when the passenger airbag is deployed. This may cause small metal parts to become detached from the housing, posing a risk of injury to the occupants.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: Unknown

The authority's notice

Engine and transmission

1 engines · 3 transmissions

CAJA · 3.0 TFSI

213 kW (290 HP) · petrol

AL420 · 6-speed automatic, longitudinal (based on ZF 6HP19)

automatic · 6 speed

Torque limit500 Nm
MakerZF/Audi

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one transmission is possible. The gear count does not tell them apart. The code is on the side of the transmission.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
Pro Line
Body
estate
Fuel
petrol
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
2995 cc
Power
213 kW (290 HP)
Drive
AWD
Production
2008–2011

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Spark plugs, petrol

    • 60,000 km or 6 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms