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Volkswagen Caddy 1.9 TDI 105hp Easyline common faults.

2004–2010, MPV, diesel, 105 HP.

The fault list covers: BJB, BLS engine, MQ250 transmission.

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10 fault write-ups. 6 important. 2 recalls.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

6 important faults

critical1

The PD (pump injector) unit is held in the cylinder head by a single side bolt. Over time the seat works itself loose: the mounting slackens, the copper ring no longer seals, and hot combustion gas blows past. First you hear a characteristic "puffing", rhythmic blowing noise from the top of the engine when cold, soot appears under the cam cover, and then the seat surface in the cylinder head erodes. At that point replacing the seal is not enough: the head has to be refurbished or replaced. It affects PD engines between 1998 and 2010, regardless of size.

What to check

  • After a cold start open the bonnet and listen above the cam cover for a rhythmic blowing, "puffing" noise
  • Shine a light around the cam cover and the injectors: oily soot indicates blow-by
  • Ask whether a PD unit or a copper ring was replaced, and whether a compression test was done afterwards
1 more steps in the write-up

expensive5

The light, magnesium cased MQ200 and the MQ250, sized for higher torque, are the most widespread manual gearboxes in the transverse engine VAG models. Both have the same two weak points, and both depend on use.

Show the rest

The first is the differential bearing: as it wears you first get a droning, then a whine from the thrust bearings of the output shaft. Left alone, the planetary shaft can fail and in extreme cases punch through the gearbox casing: from then on it is not a repair but a replacement.

The second is the synchros: they can start crunching at around 50,000 km with aggressive driving. This type does not like dumping the clutch or slipping it, and on a used car that is exactly what you have to listen for.

above 50,000 km

What to check

  • On the test drive with the window down, listen to the gearbox both off and on the throttle: droning or whining is suspect
  • Shift up and down quickly, especially into 2nd and 3rd: crunching means synchro wear
  • Try engaging 1st and reverse when cold: resistance here means wear
2 more steps in the write-up

The internal springs of the flywheel tire, and the two discs knock against each other. The signs are a rattling or knocking from the bellhousing at idle and when releasing the clutch pedal, and vibration through the floor. If the clutch slips without a burnt smell, that also points to the flywheel. It is worth replacing in time: a disintegrated flywheel can destroy the bellhousing too. At a clutch replacement the two go together anyway.

What to check

  • At idle, without touching the clutch pedal, listen for the rattle from the bellhousing, then press the pedal: if it stops, that is suspect
  • Watch for the characteristic clatter on starting and switching off
  • Put your foot on the floor at idle: a noticeable vibration indicates tired springs
2 more steps in the write-up

The two weak points of the cooling system are the radiator and the heater matrix. The latter is inside the cabin: if it leaks, you get a sweet antifreeze smell, the windscreen mists up greasily from inside, and damp stays under the passenger side carpet. The damp goes unnoticed for a long time under the floor covering. And replacing the heater matrix means stripping the dashboard.

What to check

  • Turn the heating to maximum and smell it: a sweet smell means antifreeze
  • Check whether the inside of the windscreen mists up greasily while heating
  • Feel the passenger side carpet in the footwell, at the edges too
2 more steps in the write-up

The PD injectors (on the 1.4, 1.9 and 2.0 TDI alike) are driven by the camshaft itself, against more than 2,000 bar. That wears the lobes and the rockers quickly: first a knocking noise, then a rough idle, hard starting and loss of power. The cause is the wrong oil: the PD engine requires a 5W-40 lubricant to the VW 505.01 specification, with PD approval. A plain synthetic is not enough, and on an everyday 5W-30 the lobes can wear through.

What to check

  • Listen for knocking from the cam cover when cold: that is the first sign
  • Ask for the service book and check what oil was used (VW 505.01)
  • Watch how even the idle is, and whether it starts hard when cold
2 more steps in the write-up

The vanes of the variable geometry turbo are glued together by soot and oil arriving through the EGR. First you get overboost or a lack of boost, then loss of power above 2,000 rpm, and finally limp mode. Caught in time it is enough to remove the turbo, clean it and fit a new actuator rod. Short urban trips and gentle, low rev driving speed up the deposits.

What to check

  • On the motorway, load it above 2,000 rpm: does it pull evenly, or does the power break up
  • Watch whether the warning light flashes up under acceleration (overboost protection)
  • Ask what kind of journeys it did: a daily short urban run is the worst
1 more steps in the write-up

comfort1

The G62 sensor tells the engine control unit how hot the coolant is. If it is faulty, the control unit thinks a warm engine is cold, and runs it rich: hard warm or cold starting, a rough idle, markedly increased fuel consumption, and a dash temperature gauge that jumps around or never reaches its usual reading. The part is cheap and can be replaced in half an hour: the trouble is that many people do not recognise it and replace an injector or a lambda sensor instead. If the fault persists, the rich mixture can destroy the catalytic converter too.

What to check

  • Warm it up and watch the dash temperature gauge: the needle should sit steadily at the middle reading, not jump around
  • Watch a cold start, then a warm start after twenty minutes standing
  • With a code reader look for the 17664 / P1256 code in the engine control unit
2 more steps in the write-up

cheap repair3

The G28 sensor drops out as it heats up. While driving the car stops, then starts again after a few minutes. When warm it starts with difficulty or not at all, while cold it starts, so the workshop often cannot reproduce it. The fault code does not always stay stored either.

What to check

  • Ask specifically: has it ever stopped while driving, and did it start again afterwards
  • Run it up to temperature, switch it off for 10 minutes, then restart: long cranking is suspect
  • With a code reader look for the stored (not just the active) engine control faults
1 more steps in the write-up

The Caddy has leaf springs at the back, because it was designed to carry loads, and that is exactly the part that tires from the way it is used. The sign of a tired spring is that the back of the car sits down even unladen (the rear wheel "sinks" into the arch), and a dull clonking or knocking is audible from the rear over bumps. The spring mount and the trailing arm bushes make the same noise. On a heavily loaded fleet car it is effectively a wear item; and a tired rear suspension wears the tyre unevenly too.

What to check

  • Put it on level ground and measure the arch height on the left and right: a difference points to a tired spring
  • Check whether the back sits down unladen: a low rear against the original means a tired spring
  • Go slowly over a speed hump with the window open and listen for the clonk from the rear
2 more steps in the write-up

The Caddy sliding door is opened many times a day, and the lower roller carries the weight of the door. That is what wears first: the door is hard to start moving, it grinds, it sticks halfway, and finally it "drops". The door gap visibly differs at the top and the bottom. If the mounting of the guide rail works loose, the door presses against the body, and a rub mark is left on the paint. If the roller is not replaced, the hinge and the bodywork are damaged too. On a version with a sliding door on both sides, check both.

What to check

  • Open and close the sliding door several times, fully and slowly: both binding and grinding are signs
  • Lift the door while it is open: vertical play shows wear of the lower roller
  • Look at the door gap at the top and the bottom: a difference means the door has dropped
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Volkswagen Caddy 1.9 TDI 105hp Easyline

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

Faults of this model

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Official recall2 recallsShow

The manufacturer fixes these for free at a franchised dealer. Ask with the VIN whether it was done.

A12/0300/17Safety recallInjuriesno date · EU Safety Gate

If mechanical damage occurs to the varnish layer of the gas tank, it could lead to the outer shell of the gas tank no longer having the required corrosion protection. With ongoing corrosion over an extended period of time, the residual wall thickness of the gas tank could become too low and the gas tank could burst.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: Unknown

The authority's notice

A12/0909/17Safety recallInjuriesno date · EU Safety Gate

The earth connection of the ABS/ESP system may be interrupted as a result of thermomechanical overload. This would lead to the failure of the ABS/ESP system and the risk of an accident.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: Unknown

The authority's notice

Engine and transmission

2 engines · 1 transmissions

BJB · 1.9 TDI

77 kW (105 HP) · diesel

MQ250 · 5- or 6-speed manual

manual · 5–6 speed

Torque limit250 Nm
MakerVolkswagen

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one engine code is possible. The fault list shows the faults of each.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
Easyline
Body
MPV
Fuel
diesel
Transmission
manual
Engine size
1896 cc
Power
77 kW (105 HP)
Drive
FWD
Production
2004–2010

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Timing belt, 1.9 PD TDI

    • 130,000 km or 5 years(60,000 or 80,000 miles depending on the build year)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Fuel filter, diesel

    • 60,000 km or 2 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms