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Audi Q2 2.0 TDI 150hp quattro design common faults.

2016–2020, SUV, diesel, 150 HP.

The fault list covers: DFGA engine, DQ381 transmission.

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7 fault write-ups. 5 important. 1 recalls.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

5 important faults

critical2

On these engines the oil pump is driven by its own small toothed belt, and that belt runs in the hot engine oil. This is not the large timing belt that drives the camshafts, it is a separate belt in the lower part of the engine. In the oil the rubber hardens over time, its surface starts to crumble, and the loose particles block the suction side of the oil pump, so the oil pressure drops. If the belt snaps, the oil pump stops at once and the engine is left without lubrication within seconds. The rubber crumbs can also ruin the turbocharger and the camshaft adjuster, because they are lubricated from the same oil circuit. The maker specifies no replacement interval for this belt, so most cars still carry the one fitted at the factory, and the failures are reported above 150,000 km. Oil outside the specification and a stretched oil change speed the process up, because this belt ages in the oil. Replacing the belt itself costs between 200 and 600 euro, as long as the engine has not run without oil pressure.

above 150,000 km200–600 EUR

What to check

  • Ask whether the oil pump belt has been replaced, and if so at what mileage
  • Unscrew the oil filler cap and look for black rubber crumbs in the lubricant
  • Ask which oil was used and how often the engine was serviced
2 more steps in the write-up

On short urban trips the particulate filter cannot burn through. The engine control unit then injects extra fuel late in the cycle to heat the filter, and part of that fuel passes down the cylinder wall into the sump. The oil level rises, the oil thins out, and it lubricates worse.

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The maker addresses this itself. Audi's 2015 service bulletin (01-15-18) tells the technician how to read the oil level on 2.0 TDI engines, because an overfilled level triggers an oil change message with no engine warning light and no stored fault code.

An oil level above the maximum calls for an immediate oil change, and it points to short urban trips. A diesel driven only in town is a bigger risk from both the particulate filter and the turbo.

A thinned, rising oil level is one precondition of a runaway engine. A diesel controls torque with the quantity of fuel injected, and it has no throttle. So if enough combustible liquid reaches the intake, the engine starts running on its own oil, and cutting the injection or switching off the ignition will not stop it. The revs climb on their own until the engine destroys itself.

A raised oil level alone is rarely enough for this. The classic trigger is a failed turbo shaft seal that feeds oil mist into the intake. But the two go together: thinned oil lubricates worse, and poorer lubrication damages the turbo bearing first.

If it happens while driving, the key does not help. Only cutting off the air does: cover the intake, discharge a dry powder extinguisher into the intake tract, or on a manual select a high gear with the parking brake on and release the clutch quickly.

What to check

  • Pull the dipstick with a cold engine on level ground: the level must not be above the maximum mark
  • Smell the oil on the dipstick: a diesel smell means it is thinned with fuel
  • Ask whether the dash has ever shown an oil level sensor or oil change message
5 more steps in the write-up

expensive3

The 7 speed, wet clutch DSG that replaced the DQ250 in the MQB models (0GC / DQ381) is vulnerable from the mechatronics side. Typical faults are a harsh 2 to 3 shift, delayed D/R engagement and limp mode; a fault in the clutch position sensors gives a separate group of codes.

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The wet clutch is more durable than the dry one, but as it wears you get shuddering and slipping when pulling away: the revs flare and the acceleration does not follow.

What to check

  • Standing still on the brake, shift between D and R and watch the engagement time and any jolt
  • Try pulling away on a slope too: shuddering, or revving without pulling, points to clutch wear
  • On the test drive watch the 2 to 3 shift specifically, cold and warm
2 more steps in the write-up

The internal springs of the flywheel tire, and the two discs knock against each other. The signs are a rattling or knocking from the bellhousing at idle and when releasing the clutch pedal, and vibration through the floor. If the clutch slips without a burnt smell, that also points to the flywheel. It is worth replacing in time: a disintegrated flywheel can destroy the bellhousing too. At a clutch replacement the two go together anyway.

What to check

  • At idle, without touching the clutch pedal, listen for the rattle from the bellhousing, then press the pedal: if it stops, that is suspect
  • Watch for the characteristic clatter on starting and switching off
  • Put your foot on the floor at idle: a noticeable vibration indicates tired springs
2 more steps in the write-up

On the EA288 the coolant pump is demand-controlled, and after replacement the cooling circuit cannot be filled the old way. The Schaeffler/INA repair specification requires the system to be filled with a vacuum device and bled with a diagnostic tool, following the vehicle manufacturer instructions.

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If that is skipped, the pump can be destroyed and the engine can overheat. The engine must never be started without coolant.

A pump replaced at home or without a vacuum filler can fail again shortly after. Ask for an invoice and the name of the workshop.

What to check

  • Ask whether the coolant pump has been replaced, and if so, by which workshop
  • Ask for the invoice: vacuum filling and diagnostic bleeding should be on the invoice
  • After starting, watch the coolant temperature: it should settle evenly and not fluctuate
2 more steps in the write-up

comfort1

The most common complaint on the Q2 is not the engine: the infotainment freezes or restarts, warnings flash up for no reason, and sometimes you also hear a knock or a rattle from the suspension. The electrical fault is intermittent and a short test drive can miss it, so drive the car for at least half an hour and try phone pairing too.

What to check

  • Restart the infotainment and try phone pairing too
  • Drive it for at least half an hour: the freezing typically comes while driving
  • On a poor surface listen to the suspension: knocking, rattling
1 more steps in the write-up

cheap repair1

The dash shows "Error: Workshop! Only leave vehicle in position P" with an audible warning. The message appears in whatever language the car is set to, for example "Fehler: Werkstatt! Fahrzeug nur in Stellung P verlassen" in German.

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The message points at the gearbox, but the fault is not there. A tiny switch sits in the module under the selector lever and signals that the lever is in park (P). Its contact wears and can also burn. That makes the signal unreliable, and the car warns you. The fault codes appear as 617752, P173400 or B116229.

At first it is intermittent. Sometimes the message comes up, sometimes not, so a short test drive easily misses it. Later it becomes permanent, and the gearbox can drop into limp mode.

This fault looks more expensive than it is. The maker released a separate retrofit switch kit for it (5Q0713128A for the black module, 3Q0713128 for the white one), which can be fitted in half an hour. The kit costs 70 to 100 pounds. At a franchised dealer, however, the whole selector lever module sometimes gets replaced, which costs 626 to 1,000 pounds there. So the difference between the two routes is roughly tenfold.

The affected group is post 2013 MQB platform Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda cars with a DSG gearbox. The switch is in these gearboxes, because that is what these cars have in common. The part itself is not part of the gearbox but of the module under the lever.

What to check

  • Watch the dash after starting: the message is intermittent and can be missed on a short loop
  • Move the lever from P to D and back several times, then get out and lock the car
  • Ask whether the selector lever switch has been replaced already, and ask for the invoice
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi Q2 2.0 TDI 150hp quattro design

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

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Official recall1 recallsShow

The manufacturer fixes these for free at a franchised dealer. Ask with the VIN whether it was done.

A12/1475/19Safety recallInjuriesno date · EU Safety Gate

The headrest fitting on the rear seats may be defective. As a result, the support and protection provided by the headrest in the event of an accident could be impaired, increasing the risk of an injury.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: Unknown

The authority's notice

Engine and transmission

DFGA · 2.0 TDI

110 kW (150 HP) · diesel

DQ381 · 7-speed DSG, wet clutch

DSG · 7 speed

Clutchwet
Torque limit420 Nm
MakerVolkswagen

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
quattro design
Body
SUV
Fuel
diesel
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
1968 cc
Power
110 kW (150 HP)
Drive
AWD
Production
2016–2020

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • DSG oil change, WET clutch gearbox

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Timing belt, 1.6 / 2.0 TDI (EA188/EA189/EA288)

    • 210,000 km(EA288, including the 1.6 TDI, with no time limit. 130,000 miles = 209,215 km. Parts maker repair specification, read by a human. The interval chart at https://www.rwcmotorsport.com/tech/tdi-maintenance.php gives the same figure independently.)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Fuel filter, diesel

    • 60,000 km or 2 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
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