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BMW X5 X5 4.4i High Edition common faults.

2003–2007, SUV, petrol, 320 HP.

The fault list covers: N62B44 engine, ZF5HP24, ZF6HP26 transmission.

What you save stays on this device only. My saves

6 fault write-ups. All are important. No recall on the list.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

6 important faults

In the ZF six speed automatic (BMW codes GA6HP19Z / GA6HP26Z) the electrical connector of the valve body control leaves the gearbox housing through a plastic sleeve. That sleeve and its seals age, and they let oil through.

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The symptom is irregular shifting, a gear slipping at higher revs, limp mode, a drivetrain fault code and a message on the display. The cause is the same in each case: the leak drops the hydraulic pressure, and the valve body cannot close the clutches with enough force.

The sleeve can be replaced without removing the gearbox, you only have to drop the oil pan. If it leaks for a long time, the slipping clutch and the overheating pump take the inside of the gearbox with them, and from then on it is a rebuild. The factory calls the oil a lifetime fill, but in practice the sleeve wears out around 60,000 to 70,000 miles, roughly 100,000 to 115,000 km.

between 100,000 and 200,000 km

What to check

  • On a lift look at the right side of the gearbox housing, above the oil pan: a wet, oily connector is the characteristic picture
  • On the test drive watch the shifts cold and warm: jerking, delay, slipping at higher revs
  • Ask for a fault code read from the gearbox controller: gear ratio fault, pressure regulation
2 more steps in the write-up

The seals of the coolant pipe running between the cylinder banks harden, and the coolant starts to leak. The pipe runs in the V valley of the engine, under the intake manifold, so the leak is not visible from outside: the fluid collects under the intake manifold and only appears through a weep hole.

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What the owner notices is that the coolant goes down, but there is no puddle. If the seal has let go, the loss becomes rapid, and the low coolant warning appears as well. The fault appears above 120 000 kilometres and can lead to overheating.

The factory repair is outstandingly expensive on this engine: to get the pipe out, the timing chain cover, the chain, the intake manifold and the cylinder head all have to be disturbed, and that is over 40 hours of work, with a bill above 4000 dollars. That is exactly why two aftermarket routes exist: a liner pushed into the old pipe, at around 1000 dollars, and a collapsible pipe that can be fitted without opening the engine, at between 1500 and 2500 dollars.

One thing is worth asking. Workshops usually replace the gasket of the alternator bracket and the seals of the valley pan in the same job, because they are reached from the same place. If the pipe has been done, the other two are worth looking for on the invoice.

above 120,000 km

What to check

  • Look at the coolant level and ask whether it has had to be topped up
  • Look for a puddle under the car: if the level drops but there is no puddle, the leak goes inwards
  • Shine a light under the intake manifold: that is where the fluid collects
3 more steps in the write-up

The impeller of the belt-driven water pump is made of plastic, and if the blades break apart, there is nothing left to circulate the coolant. The belt keeps driving the pump, but the engine gets no cooling and heats up quickly.

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This fault is dangerous because it gives no advance sign. There is no warning signal from a disintegrating impeller, and the engine temperature runs up faster than the gauge can follow; by the time it shows, the cylinder head can already be damaged. The breaking impeller is a fault of its own on the six-cylinder built between 1992 and 1995, which is why the maker went back to a metal impeller, and then used a composite impeller in the later engines, which proved more durable. A pump with a metal impeller is still available today, as a durability replacement.

There is, however, one sign that can be caught before the failure: play developing in the shaft of the pump. That means the bearing is wearing, and because the impeller sits on this shaft, play in the shaft signals the coming end of the pump. With the belt off it can be felt by hand.

On the M54 it appears at around 120 000 and on the N62 at around 150 000 kilometres. Once the engine has overheated, the consequence stays: a warped cylinder head and a damaged gasket are no longer put right by replacing the pump.

between 120,000 and 150,000 km

What to check

  • With the belt off take hold of the water pump shaft: play means the bearing is wearing
  • Watch the temperature gauge both while driving and at a standstill: it should not climb above the usual
  • Ask when the water pump was replaced, and whether with a metal or a composite impeller
2 more steps in the write-up

The valve stem seals harden from the heat and the years, and from then on oil seeps through the valve guide into the combustion chamber. There are 32 such seals on the V8, and their material was a weak choice to begin with, because it goes brittle.

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The characteristic sign is a puff of blue smoke, and not only at a cold start: it also comes when the car has idled for a long time at a light, or when it is started after standing for a while. Oil consumption rises slowly but steadily alongside it. The valve guide often wears together with the seal, so the repair does not necessarily end with replacing the seals. The fault appears above 130 000 kilometres.

The cylinder head does not have to come off for the repair. If the workshop has a valve spring compressor that can be used with the head in place, the camshaft and the chain do not have to be disturbed either, but the job is still a long one. The shop price is between 1800 and 3000 dollars, while the parts themselves are 300 to 500 dollars by comparison.

above 130,000 km

What to check

  • Ask the seller to start it cold: a puff of blue smoke shows the seal has failed
  • If the car is waiting warmed up in advance, ask for another appointment: the fault only shows cold
  • Let it idle for a few minutes, then blip the revs: blue smoke appears here too
2 more steps in the write-up

Oil passages run inside the bracket of the alternator, and the gasket of the bracket goes brittle from the heat of the engine and then cracks. From then on oil leaks out of it into the V valley of the engine.

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The symptom is a visible trace of oil around the alternator, and this is the rarer case: here the leak also appears from outside, instead of only collecting in the V valley. Fresh, shiny oil around the alternator belongs here.

The gasket itself is under 10 dollars, but the labour is not. For the repair the alternator has to come off, the power steering pump has to be unbolted, the engine has to be lifted and the driver's side engine mount has to be removed as well. That is between 7 and 10 hours of work, with a bill of between 1000 and 1500 dollars, and workshops also allow for removing the intake manifold.

Because they are reached from the same place, the coolant pipe running in the V valley and the seals of the valley pan are usually done in the same job. If only one of them is on the invoice, it is worth asking why not the other two.

What to check

  • Shine a light around the alternator: a fresh, shiny trace of oil belongs here
  • Look at the alternator itself: an oily alternator fails sooner or later
  • Look at the oil level and ask how much it uses
2 more steps in the write-up

The plastic guides of the timing chain go brittle from the heat and can break. A broken guide does not guide the chain, the chain slaps, and the valve timing can shift.

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The early sign is a rattle audible at a cold start from the front of the engine. If the chain jumps, the valves and the pistons meet, and that is already an engine rebuild.

The condition of the guide can only be seen with the engine apart, so the rule is that whenever the upper timing chain cover is off, the guides have to be looked at as well. That comes up during the repair of the coolant pipe running in the V valley and of the alternator bracket, because those require opening up too.

What to check

  • Start it cold and listen to the front of the engine: a rattle points to the chain guide
  • Watch whether the noise stays when warm as well: a chain fault does not go away as it warms
  • Have the fault codes read and look for ones pointing to valve timing
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

BMW X5 X5 4.4i High Edition

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

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Engine and transmission

1 engines · 2 transmissions

N62B44 · 4.4i

235 kW (320 HP) · petrol

ZF5HP24 · 5-speed automatic, longitudinal (ZF 5HP24 / A5S 440Z)

automatic · 5 speed

Torque limit480 Nm
MakerZF

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one transmission is possible. 5 gears = ZF5HP24, 6 gears = ZF6HP26.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
X5 4.4i High Edition
Body
SUV
Fuel
petrol
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
4398 cc
Power
235 kW (320 HP)
Drive
AWD
Production
2003–2007

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Engine oil and oil filter (BMW condition-based service)

    • LongLife25,000 km or 2 years
  • Spark plugs, petrol

    • 60,000 km or 6 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms