Plastic guide rails hold the timing chain in place. On these engines the plasticiser in the plastic leaches out over time, the rail turns brittle and then breaks into pieces. The pieces land around the chain and further down, in the oil sump and on the strainer of the oil pump, and the leached plasticiser also deposits on that strainer. Two kinds of damage come from this: without its guide the chain starts to flap, and less oil reaches the engine through the narrowing strainer. The first sign is a rattling noise on a cold start that goes quiet after a few seconds or once the engine has warmed up. It is heard best on a fully cold start in the morning, because the chain tensioner needs time to tension the chain. The problem is reported above 60,000 km. Replacing the chain costs between 700 and 2,900 euro, and is typically four figures, because the chain can only be reached by removing several engine components.

In these engines the water pump is not belt driven but has its own electric motor. It gains on fuel consumption, but it opens a new failure path: the pump or its electronics often simply stops with no warning. Measured in the official complaints, the typical mileage is 161,000 km (a tenth of the complaints already at 81,000, a tenth only above 257,000 km). So the common wisdom of "around 100,000 km" is early: most of the failures happen between 130,000 and 250,000 km.

A rubber gasket seals the oil filter housing to the block. The gasket hardens over the years, and oil leaks from under the housing. The oil drips onto the drive belt and the alternator.

The crankcase ventilation leads the gas that forms in the crankcase back to the intake and separates the oil out of it on the way. If the system clogs or the membrane tears, the pressure cannot get away: it finds a way out past the seals, or it pushes the oil through the piston rings. This is where the oil consumption comes from, and the oil that appears around the valve cover gasket. In the other direction a faulty breather takes unmetered air into the intake, and that is what makes the idle rough, the throttle response hesitant and the running coarse. Starting also gets harder, and in an extreme case the engine stalls at idle. Two characteristic signs help: weak or absent suction at the oil filler with the engine running, and noticeably rough running around 3,000 rpm. The hose at the rear of the valve cover can also let oil out. The sound insulation then soaks itself with oil, and oil gets everywhere in the engine bay. On the six-cylinder engines the breather is built into the valve cover, so the repair is replacing the cover or the whole oil separator together with the hoses, between 80 and 900 euro.

The ZF eight speed automatic (BMW Steptronic 8HP family) has two faults, and you can feel both.

The maker builds the charge pipe out of plastic, and the coupler at the throttle body is the critical point. The material goes brittle from heat cycles, from boost pressure and from the heat of the engine bay, and then it cracks. Three things coincide here: the moulded coupler carries both pressure and movement, the vibration of the engine arrives here through the throttle body, and the spot gets continuous heat load. The crack starts on the inner radius of the coupler. The symptom is a loss of pressure under load: the engine pulls cleanly at part throttle but flattens out at full throttle, and a hissing noise is audible from the engine bay at the same time. A yellow drivetrain warning comes with it, which often disappears after a restart, and sometimes a brief limp mode. One thing is worth knowing: a clean fault memory does not rule the crack out. The pipe has no sensor of its own, so the control unit can only log a boost pressure fault, and the leak is intermittent, appearing only under load. At a viewing two things are visible without tools. On the inner radius of the coupler the hairline crack sometimes comes with dark staining, because the oil mist in the boost air escapes through it. For the same reason a greasy, dark ring can appear at the joint of the coupler. The crack is reported above 80 000 kilometres, and replacing the pipe costs between 100 and 400 euros, because the part itself is not expensive. The most common misdiagnosis against that is replacing the turbocharger, which costs an order of magnitude more, and a pressure test protects against it. The factory repair is the same plastic part, which can crack again at a similar mileage; replaced with an aluminium pipe this failure mode disappears, and the driveability does not change.