vinkodex.

Audi A3 1.2 TFSI Ambiente common faults.

2008–2013, hatchback, petrol, 105 HP.

The fault list covers: CBZB engine, DQ200 transmission.

What you save stays on this device only. My saves

8 fault write-ups. 4 important. No recall on the list.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

4 important faults

critical1

A few seconds of chain rattle on a cold start, later a permanent noise; the chain stretches and the tensioner does not hold it. If the chain jumps, the engine is badly damaged inside, and the repair is a rebuild. The tensioner is driven by oil pressure, so it does not hold with the engine stopped: a car left rolling in gear is the typical trigger for the chain jumping.

between 65,000 and 100,000 km

What to check

  • Start it cold, and in the first 2 to 3 seconds watch for the rattle from the chain side
  • Ask whether the chain and the tensioner have been replaced, and ask for the invoice
  • Check the oil change history in the service book: stretched intervals speed up the wear
1 more steps in the write-up

expensive3

A thin wall of the mechatronics valve body can crack, which causes a loss of pressure. The typical signs: jerking and harsh shifting from 1st to 2nd at low speed, a flashing PRNDS display, then a gear engagement fault, intermittently at first.

What to check

  • Pull away slowly from standstill and watch the 1 to 2 shift: does it jerk, is it harsh
  • Check whether the PRNDS display flashes or the dash reports a gearbox fault
  • In creep mode (brake released), does the car move off evenly
1 more steps in the write-up

With direct injection the fuel does not wash the intake valves: the petrol goes into the cylinder, not behind the valve. The oil mist and soot arriving through the EGR and the crankcase ventilation therefore build up on the valve stem and head, and from 80,000 to 100,000 km they restrict the flow. Symptoms are hesitation, loss of power, a rough cold start and misfire. It is not a part failure: it is a consequence of the design, and therefore it comes back. Cleaning (walnut or dry ice blasting) helps for a few tens of thousands of kilometres.

What to check

  • After a cold start watch the idle: rough running and shaking point to coked valves
  • Under load at low revs watch for hesitation
  • With a code reader look for per cylinder misfire (P0300 to P0304)
1 more steps in the write-up

Water gets in through the sunroof drains, the door seals or the window guides, and collects on the floor and in the sill. The water also ruins the wiring and the control units in the floor, which leads to hesitant starting and an alarm going off on its own. With a fault like this, lift the carpet first, because the water is under it.

What to check

  • Lift the carpet in all four footwells and press the felt with your palm
  • On a car with a sunroof, open the roof and look at the drain openings in the corners of the frame
  • Pour water carefully over the sunroof frame, and see where it drains
2 more steps in the write-up

comfort1

Pixels drop out on the central display of the instrument cluster, where you read the trip computer: the text fades, the backlight becomes erratic, at first one or two dots are missing, and later whole lines are unreadable. This is where the service interval, the outside temperature and the warnings appear, and if a warning is unreadable you will not notice it. The instrument cluster can be refurbished, and a new one is not always needed.

What to check

  • After switching the ignition on, go over the whole display: a missing dot, a line, a faded section
  • Page through the trip computer menus: the fault often only shows on certain readouts
  • In the dark or in a garage, check that the backlight is even
2 more steps in the write-up

cheap repair3

On the 8P the rubber bushes in the front lower control arms wear out: the steering goes vague, you hear a knock on uneven roads, and the tyre edges wear unevenly. It often shows up around 60,000 to 80,000 miles, which is roughly 95,000 to 130,000 km. On front wheel drive cars the rear suspension bushes wear too, it then rattles, and the back of the car follows the front uncertainly. One part on its own is not expensive, but when they all need replacing together the suspension repair costs more. You can hear it on the test drive and see it in the tyre wear.

between 95,000 and 130,000 km

What to check

  • On an uneven road at 30 to 50 km/h listen for a dull knock from the front
  • Standing still with the engine running, turn the wheel back and forth: there should be no clicking or rattling
  • Look at the inner and outer edges of all four tyres: uneven wear points to worn bushes
2 more steps in the write-up

The central locking control unit takes in moisture over the years, and from then on it is unpredictable: the doors do not lock together, the remote sometimes does not respond, and the alarm goes off for no reason. A door that stays open is a problem in a car park, and an alarm that goes off on its own can flatten the battery.

What to check

  • Lock and unlock with the remote several times, from different distances
  • Check whether every door locks together and fully: the tailgate too
  • Try the driver's lock with the key blade as well
2 more steps in the write-up

The dash shows "Error: Workshop! Only leave vehicle in position P" with an audible warning. The message appears in whatever language the car is set to, for example "Fehler: Werkstatt! Fahrzeug nur in Stellung P verlassen" in German.

Show the rest

The message points at the gearbox, but the fault is not there. A tiny switch sits in the module under the selector lever and signals that the lever is in park (P). Its contact wears and can also burn. That makes the signal unreliable, and the car warns you. The fault codes appear as 617752, P173400 or B116229.

At first it is intermittent. Sometimes the message comes up, sometimes not, so a short test drive easily misses it. Later it becomes permanent, and the gearbox can drop into limp mode.

This fault looks more expensive than it is. The maker released a separate retrofit switch kit for it (5Q0713128A for the black module, 3Q0713128 for the white one), which can be fitted in half an hour. The kit costs 70 to 100 pounds. At a franchised dealer, however, the whole selector lever module sometimes gets replaced, which costs 626 to 1,000 pounds there. So the difference between the two routes is roughly tenfold.

The affected group is post 2013 MQB platform Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda cars with a DSG gearbox. The switch is in these gearboxes, because that is what these cars have in common. The part itself is not part of the gearbox but of the module under the lever.

What to check

  • Watch the dash after starting: the message is intermittent and can be missed on a short loop
  • Move the lever from P to D and back several times, then get out and lock the car
  • Ask whether the selector lever switch has been replaced already, and ask for the invoice
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi A3 1.2 TFSI Ambiente

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Engine and transmission

CBZB · 1.2 TFSI

77 kW (105 HP) · petrol

DQ200 · 7-speed DSG, dry clutch

DSG · 7 speed

Clutchdry
Torque limit250 Nm
MakerVolkswagen

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
Ambiente
Body
hatchback
Fuel
petrol
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
1197 cc
Power
77 kW (105 HP)
Drive
FWD
Production
2008–2013

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • DQ200: lifetime fill by the maker, not in practice

    • lifetime fill: the maker does NOT specify a change
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Spark plugs, petrol

    • 60,000 km or 6 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms