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Audi A5 40 TDI Business edition common faults.

2020–2024, hatchback, diesel, 190 HP.

The fault list covers: DESA, DETA engine, DL382 transmission.

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8 fault write-ups. 6 important. No recall on the list.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

6 important faults

critical2

After standing for a longer period, on a cold start you hear a rattling, knocking noise from the timing chain for a few seconds. The cause is oil pressure draining away overnight: the chain tensioner can only tension properly once the oil pressure has built up. A slack chain causes misfires and loss of power, and if it jumps a tooth the engine is badly damaged.

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It shows up on early (2016 to 2017) A4 B9 cars and on the A5 F5 2.0 TFSI alike: the same engine, the same platform.

The test drive does not show this, because a warmed up engine is quiet. The only reliable check is starting the cold, standing car: that is why you have to insist that the seller does not warm it up beforehand.

What to check

  • Insist on a cold start: the car should stand at least one night, and the seller must not start it before you arrive
  • At the moment of starting, stand next to the engine bay and watch the first 2 to 3 seconds
  • Rattling or metallic clatter from the timing side calls for immediate expert inspection
2 more steps in the write-up

On short urban trips the particulate filter cannot burn through. The engine control unit then injects extra fuel late in the cycle to heat the filter, and part of that fuel passes down the cylinder wall into the sump. The oil level rises, the oil thins out, and it lubricates worse.

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The maker addresses this itself. Audi's 2015 service bulletin (01-15-18) tells the technician how to read the oil level on 2.0 TDI engines, because an overfilled level triggers an oil change message with no engine warning light and no stored fault code.

An oil level above the maximum calls for an immediate oil change, and it points to short urban trips. A diesel driven only in town is a bigger risk from both the particulate filter and the turbo.

A thinned, rising oil level is one precondition of a runaway engine. A diesel controls torque with the quantity of fuel injected, and it has no throttle. So if enough combustible liquid reaches the intake, the engine starts running on its own oil, and cutting the injection or switching off the ignition will not stop it. The revs climb on their own until the engine destroys itself.

A raised oil level alone is rarely enough for this. The classic trigger is a failed turbo shaft seal that feeds oil mist into the intake. But the two go together: thinned oil lubricates worse, and poorer lubrication damages the turbo bearing first.

If it happens while driving, the key does not help. Only cutting off the air does: cover the intake, discharge a dry powder extinguisher into the intake tract, or on a manual select a high gear with the parking brake on and release the clutch quickly.

What to check

  • Pull the dipstick with a cold engine on level ground: the level must not be above the maximum mark
  • Smell the oil on the dipstick: a diesel smell means it is thinned with fuel
  • Ask whether the dash has ever shown an oil level sensor or oil change message
5 more steps in the write-up

expensive4

The most common source of faults on the longitudinal 7 speed S tronic that replaced the DL501 (0CJ / 0CK / 0CL) is the mechatronics unit as well. Typical faults are the input or turbine speed sensor (which makes the shifting unpredictable), clutch slip under load, and abnormal operation of the park lock.

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Servicing is a separate trap: because of the way the gearbox is built, this type uses up to three separate oil chambers and three filters. An incomplete oil change looks done at a glance, but the effect is missing.

between 60,000 and 100,000 km

What to check

  • Standing still, shift between D and R and watch the engagement: binding, a jolt or a delay is suspect
  • A jolt on the 1 to 2 shift is the most common early sign; try it cold and warm
  • Under load (a slope, an overtake) watch for the revs flaring, looking for clutch slip
2 more steps in the write-up

On AdBlue (SCR) diesels the NOx sensor after the catalyst ages, and the tip of the dosing valve crystallises. An AdBlue warning appears on the dash, often with a countdown ("X km of starts remaining"), while the tank is full. Crystallisation typically forms with short trip, urban use, or from poor quality AdBlue; on a car standing below freezing the circuit can freeze up too.

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At the end of the countdown there is a start inhibit: the car can become undriveable until it is repaired. The fault is not always the SCR catalyst: the cause is the sensor or the dosing valve.

between 100,000 and 160,000 km

What to check

  • Check whether there is an AdBlue filler (next to the fuel cap or in the boot): if there is not, this car does not have the system
  • Read all the dash messages after switching the ignition on: there should be no AdBlue warning and no km countdown
  • Ask for a fault code read: the codes P20EE, P2202 and P229F belong here. A cleared code comes back after a few tens of kilometres
2 more steps in the write-up

The internal springs of the flywheel tire, and the two discs knock against each other. The signs are a rattling or knocking from the bellhousing at idle and when releasing the clutch pedal, and vibration through the floor. If the clutch slips without a burnt smell, that also points to the flywheel. It is worth replacing in time: a disintegrated flywheel can destroy the bellhousing too. At a clutch replacement the two go together anyway.

What to check

  • At idle, without touching the clutch pedal, listen for the rattle from the bellhousing, then press the pedal: if it stops, that is suspect
  • Watch for the characteristic clatter on starting and switching off
  • Put your foot on the floor at idle: a noticeable vibration indicates tired springs
2 more steps in the write-up

The vanes of the variable geometry turbo are glued together by soot and oil arriving through the EGR. First you get overboost or a lack of boost, then loss of power above 2,000 rpm, and finally limp mode. Caught in time it is enough to remove the turbo, clean it and fit a new actuator rod. Short urban trips and gentle, low rev driving speed up the deposits.

What to check

  • On the motorway, load it above 2,000 rpm: does it pull evenly, or does the power break up
  • Watch whether the warning light flashes up under acceleration (overboost protection)
  • Ask what kind of journeys it did: a daily short urban run is the worst
1 more steps in the write-up

comfort2

On the infotainment of the B9 platform (A4 B9, A5 F5, Q5 FY) the most common complaint is a black screen, a unit that restarts on its own, and a boot that stops partway. A significant part of these are software in origin, not a hardware fault: an update installed at a franchised dealer resolves it.

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The buttons of the control interface form a separate branch: a control panel damaged by water ingress or a spilled drink does not respond, and that is a parts replacement. On early cars small electrical faults are common too: intermittent dropouts of the central locking, the parking sensors and the phone connection.

What to check

  • After switching the ignition on, wait for the full boot: a screen that stops or stays black is a clear sign
  • Press every button on the central control panel and turn the rotary knob: all of them must respond
  • Try the reversing camera, the audio system and phone pairing too
2 more steps in the write-up

The G62 sensor tells the engine control unit how hot the coolant is. If it is faulty, the control unit thinks a warm engine is cold, and runs it rich: hard warm or cold starting, a rough idle, markedly increased fuel consumption, and a dash temperature gauge that jumps around or never reaches its usual reading. The part is cheap and can be replaced in half an hour: the trouble is that many people do not recognise it and replace an injector or a lambda sensor instead. If the fault persists, the rich mixture can destroy the catalytic converter too.

What to check

  • Warm it up and watch the dash temperature gauge: the needle should sit steadily at the middle reading, not jump around
  • Watch a cold start, then a warm start after twenty minutes standing
  • With a code reader look for the 17664 / P1256 code in the engine control unit
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi A5 40 TDI Business edition

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Engine and transmission

2 engines · 1 transmissions

DESA · 2.0 TDI

140 kW (190 HP) · diesel

DL382 · 7-speed S tronic, longitudinal

DSG · 7 speed

Clutcholajfürdős
Torque limit400 Nm
MakerAudi

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one engine code is possible. The fault list shows the faults of each.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
40 TDI Business edition
Body
hatchback
Fuel
diesel
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
1968 cc
Power
140 kW (190 HP)
Drive
FWD
Production
2020–2024

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • DSG oil change, WET clutch gearbox

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Timing belt, 1.6 / 2.0 TDI (EA188/EA189/EA288)

    • 210,000 km(EA288, including the 1.6 TDI, with no time limit. 130,000 miles = 209,215 km. Parts maker repair specification, read by a human. The interval chart at https://www.rwcmotorsport.com/tech/tdi-maintenance.php gives the same figure independently.)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Fuel filter, diesel

    • 60,000 km or 2 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms