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Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI Elegance common faults.

2005–2009, estate, diesel, 105 HP.

The fault list covers: BJB, BKC, BLS, BXE engine, AQ250, DQ200, DQ250 transmission.

What you save stays on this device only. My saves

12 fault write-ups. 9 important. 1 recalls.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

9 important faults

critical1

The PD (pump injector) unit is held in the cylinder head by a single side bolt. Over time the seat works itself loose: the mounting slackens, the copper ring no longer seals, and hot combustion gas blows past. First you hear a characteristic "puffing", rhythmic blowing noise from the top of the engine when cold, soot appears under the cam cover, and then the seat surface in the cylinder head erodes. At that point replacing the seal is not enough: the head has to be refurbished or replaced. It affects PD engines between 1998 and 2010, regardless of size.

What to check

  • After a cold start open the bonnet and listen above the cam cover for a rhythmic blowing, "puffing" noise
  • Shine a light around the cam cover and the injectors: oily soot indicates blow-by
  • Ask whether a PD unit or a copper ring was replaced, and whether a compression test was done afterwards
1 more steps in the write-up

expensive8

The solenoids of the mechatronics unit wear out: slow or harsh shifting, then limp mode. A characteristic sign is the partial or complete loss of reverse. Wear of the clutch pack or the wrong spring force causes jerking and slipping. Because of the wet design it fails less often and at higher mileage than the dry DQ200, but when it does fail, it is expensive.

above 150,000 km

What to check

  • Pull away slowly from standstill and watch how smooth the 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 shifts are
  • Select reverse several times, cold and warm: is it delayed, does it engage at all
  • Under load (on a slope) watch whether the clutch slips
2 more steps in the write-up

The Aisin automatic of the transverse engine VAG models locks the torque converter across a wide slip range, which gains on fuel consumption but loses on the life of the friction lining. The sign of wear is a vibration or "buzzing" felt at lock-up, and the lock-up cycling on and off.

Show the rest

The other branch is the valve body: the control bores wear, and from then on the pressure cannot be held. A fault like that cannot be fixed with new solenoids: the seller's argument that "we replaced the solenoids" does not solve the problem on its own, and the symptom comes back after a few hundred kilometres.

What to check

  • With a warm gearbox, at 60 to 90 km/h on steady throttle, watch for vibration or buzzing: that is the torque converter locking up
  • Try it both cold and warm: a marked difference between the two points to valve body wear
  • Watch for harsh 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 shifts and slipping under load
2 more steps in the write-up

A thin wall of the mechatronics valve body can crack, which causes a loss of pressure. The typical signs: jerking and harsh shifting from 1st to 2nd at low speed, a flashing PRNDS display, then a gear engagement fault, intermittently at first.

What to check

  • Pull away slowly from standstill and watch the 1 to 2 shift: does it jerk, is it harsh
  • Check whether the PRNDS display flashes or the dash reports a gearbox fault
  • In creep mode (brake released), does the car move off evenly
1 more steps in the write-up

The internal springs of the flywheel tire, and the two discs knock against each other. The signs are a rattling or knocking from the bellhousing at idle and when releasing the clutch pedal, and vibration through the floor. If the clutch slips without a burnt smell, that also points to the flywheel. It is worth replacing in time: a disintegrated flywheel can destroy the bellhousing too. At a clutch replacement the two go together anyway.

What to check

  • At idle, without touching the clutch pedal, listen for the rattle from the bellhousing, then press the pedal: if it stops, that is suspect
  • Watch for the characteristic clatter on starting and switching off
  • Put your foot on the floor at idle: a noticeable vibration indicates tired springs
2 more steps in the write-up

The water collector tray under the windscreen (where the wiper mechanism sits) blocks up with leaves and dust. The water cannot drain, it stands, and it runs into the cabin: typically into the front footwell, often on the passenger side.

Show the rest

Control units and wiring harnesses run under the footwell and in the sill, and they corrode. That is where the apparently unrelated electrical faults come from. The rear washer system is a separate water ingress point on the same model.

The tray has to be cleaned out once a year, and that takes about ten minutes.

What to check

  • Open the bonnet and look into the tray under the windscreen: there should be no leaves, silt or standing water
  • Lift the carpet in both front footwells and press the felt with your palm
  • Smell the cabin: a musty smell stays even on a dry day
2 more steps in the write-up

Surface corrosion of the rear subframe is a known phenomenon on the Mk2, mostly on cars built before 2010; the late facelift cars from 2010 to 2013 have less rust. Alongside it the sill, the wheel arch lip and the windscreen frame are the typical hot spots.

Show the rest

Where roads are salted in winter, exactly these places take it. Rust on the windscreen frame cannot be repaired properly without removing the windscreen.

Surface rust can be treated. Metal rusted through on a structural part is a structural fault.

What to check

  • On a lift or over a pit, go over the rear subframe: is it surface rust, or metal flaking off in scales?
  • Run your finger along the lower lip of the sills, behind the plastic trim too
  • Look at the inner lip of all four wheel arches
2 more steps in the write-up

The PD injectors (on the 1.4, 1.9 and 2.0 TDI alike) are driven by the camshaft itself, against more than 2,000 bar. That wears the lobes and the rockers quickly: first a knocking noise, then a rough idle, hard starting and loss of power. The cause is the wrong oil: the PD engine requires a 5W-40 lubricant to the VW 505.01 specification, with PD approval. A plain synthetic is not enough, and on an everyday 5W-30 the lobes can wear through.

What to check

  • Listen for knocking from the cam cover when cold: that is the first sign
  • Ask for the service book and check what oil was used (VW 505.01)
  • Watch how even the idle is, and whether it starts hard when cold
2 more steps in the write-up

The vanes of the variable geometry turbo are glued together by soot and oil arriving through the EGR. First you get overboost or a lack of boost, then loss of power above 2,000 rpm, and finally limp mode. Caught in time it is enough to remove the turbo, clean it and fit a new actuator rod. Short urban trips and gentle, low rev driving speed up the deposits.

What to check

  • On the motorway, load it above 2,000 rpm: does it pull evenly, or does the power break up
  • Watch whether the warning light flashes up under acceleration (overboost protection)
  • Ask what kind of journeys it did: a daily short urban run is the worst
1 more steps in the write-up

comfort1

The G62 sensor tells the engine control unit how hot the coolant is. If it is faulty, the control unit thinks a warm engine is cold, and runs it rich: hard warm or cold starting, a rough idle, markedly increased fuel consumption, and a dash temperature gauge that jumps around or never reaches its usual reading. The part is cheap and can be replaced in half an hour: the trouble is that many people do not recognise it and replace an injector or a lambda sensor instead. If the fault persists, the rich mixture can destroy the catalytic converter too.

What to check

  • Warm it up and watch the dash temperature gauge: the needle should sit steadily at the middle reading, not jump around
  • Watch a cold start, then a warm start after twenty minutes standing
  • With a code reader look for the 17664 / P1256 code in the engine control unit
2 more steps in the write-up

cheap repair2

The dash shows "Error: Workshop! Only leave vehicle in position P" with an audible warning. The message appears in whatever language the car is set to, for example "Fehler: Werkstatt! Fahrzeug nur in Stellung P verlassen" in German.

Show the rest

The message points at the gearbox, but the fault is not there. A tiny switch sits in the module under the selector lever and signals that the lever is in park (P). Its contact wears and can also burn. That makes the signal unreliable, and the car warns you. The fault codes appear as 617752, P173400 or B116229.

At first it is intermittent. Sometimes the message comes up, sometimes not, so a short test drive easily misses it. Later it becomes permanent, and the gearbox can drop into limp mode.

This fault looks more expensive than it is. The maker released a separate retrofit switch kit for it (5Q0713128A for the black module, 3Q0713128 for the white one), which can be fitted in half an hour. The kit costs 70 to 100 pounds. At a franchised dealer, however, the whole selector lever module sometimes gets replaced, which costs 626 to 1,000 pounds there. So the difference between the two routes is roughly tenfold.

The affected group is post 2013 MQB platform Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda cars with a DSG gearbox. The switch is in these gearboxes, because that is what these cars have in common. The part itself is not part of the gearbox but of the module under the lever.

What to check

  • Watch the dash after starting: the message is intermittent and can be missed on a short loop
  • Move the lever from P to D and back several times, then get out and lock the car
  • Ask whether the selector lever switch has been replaced already, and ask for the invoice
2 more steps in the write-up

The G28 sensor drops out as it heats up. While driving the car stops, then starts again after a few minutes. When warm it starts with difficulty or not at all, while cold it starts, so the workshop often cannot reproduce it. The fault code does not always stay stored either.

What to check

  • Ask specifically: has it ever stopped while driving, and did it start again afterwards
  • Run it up to temperature, switch it off for 10 minutes, then restart: long cranking is suspect
  • With a code reader look for the stored (not just the active) engine control faults
1 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI Elegance

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

Faults of this model

vinkodex.com · Before you buy it, see what can go wrong.

Official recall1 recallsShow

The manufacturer fixes these for free at a franchised dealer. Ask with the VIN whether it was done.

Most recent: 28 June 2017

A12/0913/17Safety recallInjuries28 June 2017 · EU Safety Gate

A thermal overload can lead to an insufficient earth connection and interrupt the current flow to components in the ABS/ESC control unit. This could lead to the vehicle stability control function not working when required.

Remedy: Type of economic operator taking notified measure(s): Manufacturer Category of measure(s): Recall of the product from end users Date of entry into force: 28/06/2017

We could not check this: model year. The authority's notice

Engine and transmission

4 engines · 3 transmissions

BJB · 1.9 TDI

77 kW (105 HP) · diesel

AQ250 · 6-speed automatic (torque converter)

automatic · 6 speed

Torque limit250 Nm
MakerAisin

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one engine code is possible. The fault list shows the faults of each. More than one transmission is possible. The gear count does not tell them apart. The code is on the side of the transmission.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
Elegance
Body
estate
Fuel
diesel
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
1896 cc
Power
77 kW (105 HP)
Drive
FWD
Production
2005–2009

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Timing belt, 1.9 PD TDI

    • 130,000 km or 5 years(60,000 or 80,000 miles depending on the build year)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Fuel filter, diesel

    • 60,000 km or 2 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
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