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Audi A4 1.8 TFSI 160hp quattro Pro Line S common faults.

2008–2011, estate, petrol, 160 HP.

The fault list covers: CABB, CDHB engine, ML311 transmission.

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6 fault write-ups. 5 important. No recall on the list.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

5 important faults

expensive5

A small electric motor built into the rear brake calipers applies the parking brake. This is a known weak point of the B8 platform (A4 B8, A5 8T, Q5 8R, allroad B8): moisture and road salt get into the motor housing, the electronics corrode, and the gears seize. The symptom is a parking brake that will not apply or will not release, with a fault message.

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Two things are worth knowing about it. First, the system is sensitive to voltage: a weak battery dropping below 12.2 V can trigger an intermittent parking brake fault on its own, especially in the cold. In that case it is not the brake that needs replacing. Second, servicing the rear brake requires putting the caliper into service mode with a diagnostic tool; forcing the piston back by hand destroys the actuator itself.

above 50,000 km

What to check

  • Apply and release the parking brake several times in a row: it must work evenly and without a fault in both directions
  • Stop the car on a slope on the parking brake alone: it has to hold
  • After switching the ignition on, check for a parking brake or hill hold fault message
2 more steps in the write-up

The front suspension of the longitudinal engine Audis (and the Seat Exeo derived from them) works with four control arms per side: two above, two below. That gives excellent steering when new, but it also means four ball joints and eight bushes per side: sixteen wear points at the front in total.

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The first complaints appear at around 100,000 to 120,000 km: knocking over bumps, squeaking, vague steering, vibration through the wheel at higher speed, and uneven tyre wear from the disturbed suspension geometry.

Replacing a single arm is not expensive, but it rarely stops at one, and the work also needs a wheel alignment afterwards. Workshops therefore offer a full arm kit, which is a serious item, and an excellent bargaining point, because you can hear it on the test drive and see it on the tyres.

between 100,000 and 120,000 km

What to check

  • On an uneven road at 30 to 50 km/h listen for dull knocking and squeaking from the front
  • Standing still with the engine running, turn the wheel back and forth: there should be no clicking or rattling
  • Look at the inner and outer edges of all four tyres: uneven wear is the surest sign
2 more steps in the write-up

Channels around the sunroof frame carry the water away, leaves, dust and dirt block them, the rubber valve at the end of the channel sticks shut, and the water runs into the headlining, the A-pillar, the footwell and the boot. On the B8 A4 this often leads to electrical faults: you often miss the water and notice instead that something electrical starts behaving oddly, and by then the control unit in the floor is already corroding. Cleaning the drains is a cheap repair, replacing a soaked control unit is expensive.

What to check

  • Open the sunroof and look at the drain openings in all four corners of the frame
  • Pour a little water carefully into the corner of the frame, and see where it appears under the car
  • Lift the carpet in all four footwells and press the felt with your palm
2 more steps in the write-up

The combined housing of the water pump and the thermostat is plastic, and it is bolted directly to the hot engine block. The many heat and cool cycles warp it, it becomes brittle, and then it develops a hairline crack: the fault is almost always the housing, not the pump itself. The signs are slowly disappearing coolant with no visible puddle, the coolant level light, a sweet smell from the engine bay, and later a pink stain under the car. The repair means replacing the pump and the housing together, and the intake manifold has to come off for it: 4 to 6 hours of work. It shows up on model years 2015 to 2025.

What to check

  • Check the level in the expansion tank, and ask whether it needs topping up
  • With a cold engine, smell the engine bay: a sweet smell means a coolant leak
  • Shine a light under the intake manifold, on the right side of the engine: dried or pinkish deposits
2 more steps in the write-up

With direct injection the fuel does not wash the intake valves: the petrol goes into the cylinder, not behind the valve. The oil mist and soot arriving through the EGR and the crankcase ventilation therefore build up on the valve stem and head, and from 80,000 to 100,000 km they restrict the flow. Symptoms are hesitation, loss of power, a rough cold start and misfire. It is not a part failure: it is a consequence of the design, and therefore it comes back. Cleaning (walnut or dry ice blasting) helps for a few tens of thousands of kilometres.

What to check

  • After a cold start watch the idle: rough running and shaking point to coked valves
  • Under load at low revs watch for hesitation
  • With a code reader look for per cylinder misfire (P0300 to P0304)
1 more steps in the write-up

cheap repair1

The crankcase breather carries the vapour that forms inside the engine back to the intake, and a rubber membrane regulates the pressure. Oil and heat harden this membrane until it tears, and from then on the intake draws air through the hole in it. The engine control unit does not measure that air, so the mixture goes wrong: the engine shakes at idle, stumbles when accelerating, and the fault memory gets P2279 for an intake system leak. In the other direction oil starts towards the intake, which leaves an oily film in the intercooler and on the intake pipe and speeds up the carbon build-up on the intake valves. The audible sign is a whistling or hissing noise from the engine bay, loudest at idle. The tear is reported between 60,000 and 90,000 km. On the first and second generation the breather is a separately replaceable valve (factory number 06H 103 495 AK) and costs between 80 and 400 euro; from the third generation it is built into the cam cover, so there the cover is replaced. The maker issued three versions up to 2016, and fitting the pressure variant that does not belong to the engine brings the same symptom back.

between 60,000 and 90,000 km80–400 EUR

What to check

  • At idle listen for a whistling or hissing noise from the engine bay
  • Read the fault memory and look for the P2279 code for an intake system leak
  • Take the air filter housing lid off and see whether there is an oily film on the filter and in the housing
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

Audi A4 1.8 TFSI 160hp quattro Pro Line S

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

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Engine and transmission

2 engines · 1 transmissions

CABB · 1.8 TFSI

118 kW (160 HP) · petrol

ML311 · 6-speed manual, longitudinal (0B1 / 0B2)

manual · 6 speed

Torque limit400 Nm
MakerAudi

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one engine code is possible. The fault list shows the faults of each.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
quattro Pro Line S
Body
estate
Fuel
petrol
Transmission
manual
Engine size
1798 cc
Power
118 kW (160 HP)
Drive
AWD
Production
2008–2011

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Spark plugs, petrol

    • 60,000 km or 6 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
Details in the terms