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SEAT Leon 2.0 TDI Sport common faults.

2009–2013, hatchback, diesel, 140 HP.

The fault list covers: BKD, CBAB, CBDB, CFFB, CFHC, CJAA engine, DQ250 transmission.

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11 fault write-ups. 10 important. No recall on the list.

If you know the year, pick it. Faults for other years drop out of the list.

Before you buy

Known faults

10 important faults

critical4

The EGR cooler cools the recirculated exhaust gas before it enters the intake again, and coolant flows through it while it does so. The temperature difference between the two sides is large, so the wall can crack or the gasket can let through, and then the coolant reaches the exhaust or the intake side. This leaves no puddle under the car and the place of the leak is not visible from outside: the coolant evaporates and the level drops slowly, over weeks. The accompanying signs are whitish smoke, a rising coolant temperature, raised pressure in the cooling system and a sweetish smell. If it goes on for months the cylinder head can be damaged too, because the cooling gradually gets worse. On the EA189 engines the fault code P2425 usually comes with it. The problem is reported above 100,000 km, and replacing the cooler costs 600 to 1,500 euro.

above 100,000 km600–1,500 EUR

What to check

  • Look at the level in the expansion tank and ask how much has to be topped up
  • Look for traces outside: if the level drops but there is no puddle or streak, the leak is internal
  • After a cold start watch the exhaust, because lasting whitish smoke is not only condensation
2 more steps in the write-up

The balance shaft module drives the oil pump through a hexagonal shaft stub. That hex and its mating part gradually round off, until the shaft finally turns freely: the oil pump stops and the oil pressure is gone. The process gives no warning, and that is exactly what makes it dangerous. The failure typically happens at high revs, and the oil pressure light comes on only once the damage is already done. The factory hex is undersized, so it knocks against the wall of the bore, and the wear accelerates itself. The maker classed it as a "tolerance deviation" and, given the small number of cases against total production, did not recommend preventive repair; Audi alone ran a service action (13D7). The replacement is expensive: on the German market the module replacement is 1,300 to 1,700 euro, and an independent repair touching only the hex is around 650 euro. The reported cases cluster around the Passat B6, Sharan, Audi A4/A6, Superb and Alhambra, in model years between 2005 and 2009. This layout is not only on the pump-injector (PD) engines, it is on the common rail EA189 engines too: the same module, the same hex, the same wear. The failure is typically reported between 100,000 and 160,000 km. The first sign is a short flash of the oil pressure light, in a long bend or a few seconds after a cold start, and then quiet again. The versions without balance shafts (BKD, BMM, BMN, AZV) drive the oil pump differently and are not affected by this wear. If the light stays on or flashes, stop as soon as it is safe, switch the engine off, and do not restart it until the oil pressure has been measured.

between 100,000 and 160,000 km

What to check

  • Ask whether the balance shaft module or the oil pump drive has been replaced, and if so, with a factory or a strengthened hex
  • Read through the service book: has an oil pressure warning ever flashed, even once
  • Unscrew the oil filler cap and look for metallic glitter in the lubricant
3 more steps in the write-up

On these engines the oil pump is driven by its own small toothed belt, and that belt runs in the hot engine oil. This is not the large timing belt that drives the camshafts, it is a separate belt in the lower part of the engine. In the oil the rubber hardens over time, its surface starts to crumble, and the loose particles block the suction side of the oil pump, so the oil pressure drops. If the belt snaps, the oil pump stops at once and the engine is left without lubrication within seconds. The rubber crumbs can also ruin the turbocharger and the camshaft adjuster, because they are lubricated from the same oil circuit. The maker specifies no replacement interval for this belt, so most cars still carry the one fitted at the factory, and the failures are reported above 150,000 km. Oil outside the specification and a stretched oil change speed the process up, because this belt ages in the oil. Replacing the belt itself costs between 200 and 600 euro, as long as the engine has not run without oil pressure.

above 150,000 km200–600 EUR

What to check

  • Ask whether the oil pump belt has been replaced, and if so at what mileage
  • Unscrew the oil filler cap and look for black rubber crumbs in the lubricant
  • Ask which oil was used and how often the engine was serviced
2 more steps in the write-up

The wiring harness running under the driver's seat kinks and breaks from the seat being adjusted. The sign is the airbag light staying on on the dash. With the airbag light on the system will not work in a crash, and it fails the roadworthiness test too. The part is cheap, the fault finding is the expensive bit, and many sellers mention it as "just a light".

What to check

  • After switching the ignition on, watch whether the airbag light goes out within a few seconds
  • Slide the seat fully forwards and backwards, and watch whether the light flashes up
  • Look at the wiring harness under the seat: broken insulation, chafe marks
1 more steps in the write-up

expensive6

The EGR valve and its cooler block up with soot and oily deposits; the particulate filter cannot regenerate on short urban trips. The signs are reduced power, a warning light, and frequent regeneration. The software update after the diesel emissions affair made the EGR operate more often, which accelerated the phenomenon: the maker gave goodwill repairs in several cases.

between 140,000 and 160,000 km

What to check

  • Ask what kind of journeys the car did: a daily short urban run is the worst for the filter
  • With a code reader look at the stored faults (P0401/P0402, and P2002 for the filter)
  • Ask whether it received the post emissions affair software update, and when
1 more steps in the write-up

The solenoids of the mechatronics unit wear out: slow or harsh shifting, then limp mode. A characteristic sign is the partial or complete loss of reverse. Wear of the clutch pack or the wrong spring force causes jerking and slipping. Because of the wet design it fails less often and at higher mileage than the dry DQ200, but when it does fail, it is expensive.

above 150,000 km

What to check

  • Pull away slowly from standstill and watch how smooth the 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 shifts are
  • Select reverse several times, cold and warm: is it delayed, does it engage at all
  • Under load (on a slope) watch whether the clutch slips
2 more steps in the write-up

The door seal ages, and the water runs into the front footwell. It stays in the foam under the carpet, so for a long time only the misting windows and the musty smell show it. The comfort control unit and several connectors run in the footwell: if they corrode, the fault is electrical from then on.

What to check

  • Lift the front carpets and press the foam on both sides
  • Run your finger along the door seals: hard, cracked rubber is porous
  • Smell the cabin when cold
1 more steps in the write-up

The internal springs of the flywheel tire, and the two discs knock against each other. The signs are a rattling or knocking from the bellhousing at idle and when releasing the clutch pedal, and vibration through the floor. If the clutch slips without a burnt smell, that also points to the flywheel. It is worth replacing in time: a disintegrated flywheel can destroy the bellhousing too. At a clutch replacement the two go together anyway.

What to check

  • At idle, without touching the clutch pedal, listen for the rattle from the bellhousing, then press the pedal: if it stops, that is suspect
  • Watch for the characteristic clatter on starting and switching off
  • Put your foot on the floor at idle: a noticeable vibration indicates tired springs
2 more steps in the write-up

The rear calipers seize: the pad does not release, the disc overheats and turns blue, the car pulls to one side under braking, and the fuel consumption rises unnoticed. On salted winter roads it develops faster. The symptom is easy to mistake for simple pad wear, but a seized caliper takes the disc with it, and often the wheel bearing too.

What to check

  • After the test drive, carefully bring your hand near the rear hubs: a hot side means a seized caliper
  • Look at the surface of the rear discs: a bluish discolouration means overheating
  • Compare the pad thickness on the left and right side
2 more steps in the write-up

The vanes of the variable geometry turbo are glued together by soot and oil arriving through the EGR. First you get overboost or a lack of boost, then loss of power above 2,000 rpm, and finally limp mode. Caught in time it is enough to remove the turbo, clean it and fit a new actuator rod. Short urban trips and gentle, low rev driving speed up the deposits.

What to check

  • On the motorway, load it above 2,000 rpm: does it pull evenly, or does the power break up
  • Watch whether the warning light flashes up under acceleration (overboost protection)
  • Ask what kind of journeys it did: a daily short urban run is the worst
1 more steps in the write-up

cheap repair1

The dash shows "Error: Workshop! Only leave vehicle in position P" with an audible warning. The message appears in whatever language the car is set to, for example "Fehler: Werkstatt! Fahrzeug nur in Stellung P verlassen" in German.

Show the rest

The message points at the gearbox, but the fault is not there. A tiny switch sits in the module under the selector lever and signals that the lever is in park (P). Its contact wears and can also burn. That makes the signal unreliable, and the car warns you. The fault codes appear as 617752, P173400 or B116229.

At first it is intermittent. Sometimes the message comes up, sometimes not, so a short test drive easily misses it. Later it becomes permanent, and the gearbox can drop into limp mode.

This fault looks more expensive than it is. The maker released a separate retrofit switch kit for it (5Q0713128A for the black module, 3Q0713128 for the white one), which can be fitted in half an hour. The kit costs 70 to 100 pounds. At a franchised dealer, however, the whole selector lever module sometimes gets replaced, which costs 626 to 1,000 pounds there. So the difference between the two routes is roughly tenfold.

The affected group is post 2013 MQB platform Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda cars with a DSG gearbox. The switch is in these gearboxes, because that is what these cars have in common. The part itself is not part of the gearbox but of the module under the lever.

What to check

  • Watch the dash after starting: the message is intermittent and can be missed on a short loop
  • Move the lever from P to D and back several times, then get out and lock the car
  • Ask whether the selector lever switch has been replaced already, and ask for the invoice
2 more steps in the write-up

Checklist

SEAT Leon 2.0 TDI Sport

First what you would check on any car. Then the faults of this model.

Before you buy

Checklist

The printed sheet starts with what you would check on any car. What you tick stays on this device only.

On every car

Ask the owner

Faults of this model

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Engine and transmission

6 engines · 1 transmissions

BKD · 2.0 TDI

103 kW (140 HP) · diesel

DQ250 · 6-speed DSG, wet clutch

DSG · 6 speed

Clutchwet
Torque limit400 Nm
MakerVolkswagen

We built the code from the model and the gear count. The factory sheet does not state it. More than one engine code is possible. The fault list shows the faults of each.

Variant data

What is in this version

Factory data

Trim
Sport
Body
hatchback
Fuel
diesel
Transmission
automatic
Engine size
1968 cc
Power
103 kW (140 HP)
Drive
FWD
Production
2009–2013

Factory service interval

The manufacturer specifies this for this version. Of the mileage and the time, the one that comes first is the one that counts.

  • Air filter

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Cabin (pollen) filter

    • 30,000 km or 2 years
  • Engine oil and oil filter

    • LongLife30,000 km or 2 years(valid only with LongLife-approved oil)
    • 15,000 km or 1 year
  • Brake fluid change

    • first: 3 years, then 2 years(first change at 3 years, then every two years)
  • DSG oil change, WET clutch gearbox

    • 60,000 km or 4 years
  • Timing belt, 1.6 / 2.0 TDI (EA188/EA189/EA288)

    • 210,000 km(EA288, including the 1.6 TDI, with no time limit. 130,000 miles = 209,215 km. Parts maker repair specification, read by a human. The interval chart at https://www.rwcmotorsport.com/tech/tdi-maintenance.php gives the same figure independently.)
  • Coolant (antifreeze) change

    • first: 193,000 km or 10 years, then 97,000 km or 5 years(G13 / G12++: first change at 120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles or 5 years)
  • Fuel filter, diesel

    • 60,000 km or 2 years

Information, not an expert opinion

We write the descriptions, and we put the source next to them. A person reviews them before they go out. They are still information, not a technical expert opinion.

  • A fault on the list does not mean the car you are looking at has it.
  • A fault missing from the list does not mean the model is fault-free. Write-ups are made model by model. Not all of them are done.
  • You decide whether to buy. This is no substitute for an inspection. That needs a workshop and a history check.
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